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Steve Chapple wrote:
> In lugnet.org.ca.nalug, Michel Magnan writes:
> > ...The ["standard" LEGO train table] legs are very labor intensive,
> > and I still haven't finished the legs from the tables I made last year.
> > I believe that the PNLTC guys have eliminated the attachable legs, due
> > to the long set up time. If we could somehow use folding legs that would
> > save a lot of time, both now and in the future. Steve could you post
> > to the IOLTC asking them about their current table standards?
>
> I did so, and John Neal started to reply, but then figured it would
> be better to discuss it here so that others could contribute to - and
> benefit from - the discussion. OK John - you have the floor... 8-)
Ahem, well, okay then:-)
First off, I will say that there is no current "standard". The GMLTC used
30"x45" tables for our last layout (actually just a skosh longer on each
dimension to avoid module buckling). This size is convenient because it is
the area of 6 large gray baseplates. For the legs we used regular ol' metal
folding ones you can buy at any Home Depot or such for about $12 (for a
pair). They are 30" high.
I think we used 1/2 thick plywood, but the tables were reinforced with a rim
of 2x4s underneath for added stremph. We ran them long ways. Here is a
schematic of the old layout:
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=2213
The flared-out modules were the last ones we built and where we got taste of
a deeper size with which to work. Our new layout was supposed to be the same
dimensions, only turned 90 degrees to make the depth be 45". In fact, we
even set some standards with the Mike Poindexter of the BayLTC.
Unfortunately, due to space limitations in our trailer, we had to alter our
dimensions. In order to maximize what space was available to us, we decided
to go with the tables being 40"x60" (long ways). Conan is having the frames
for these modules built from aluminum, so we are digressing away from any
sort of standard.
Having said all of that, I would say that if there were to be some standard,
I would recommend 30 x 45, and have the tables be 30" high. This is what I
use for my home layout. Personally, I used 3/4 plywood and no bracing. I
used high quality plywood (birch, I think), and had Home Depot cut them right
there. The other nice thing about 30 x 45 is that you get 3 tables out of 1
sheet of 4' x 8' with little waste. The folding legs screw in easily, and
you're good to go. 30 x 45 is easy to handle and maneuver, and can fit
through most doorways flat. I run mine 45" deep like the BayLTC layout does,
although I am only building up my modules 16 bricks, which is the minimum
I've found to allow for subway car clearance.
Uh, I guess I rambled on a little more than I had planned:-p Any other
thoughts about setting a standard for tables?
-John
> L#765
> StRuCtures
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In lugnet.org.ca.nalug, John Neal writes:
<snip>
> I think we used 1/2 thick plywood, but the tables were reinforced with a rim
> of 2x4s underneath for added stremph. We ran them long ways.
At first I tried to imagine a rim of LEGO 2x4s reinforcing the tables! :)
Build well,
Andreas Stabno
http://www.lugnet.com/~19/
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Andreas Stabno wrote:
> In lugnet.org.ca.nalug, John Neal writes:
>
> <snip>
>
> > I think we used 1/2 thick plywood, but the tables were reinforced with a rim
> > of 2x4s underneath for added stremph. We ran them long ways.
>
> At first I tried to imagine a rim of LEGO 2x4s reinforcing the tables! :)
lol, Oops, I guess I should have been more careful with my wording-- that's
funny!
-John
> Build well,
>
> Andreas Stabno
> http://www.lugnet.com/~19/
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I agree that the folding legs are the way to go if you want to save space in
transporting them and setting up. I used the "conventional" bolt on legs for
a year and that was all I could take. I was tired of being the last group to
leave the train shows. So I converted our tables to use the folding table
legs:
http://www.ngltc.org/legooutlet2000/setup.jpg
I bought them online for $30 a pair, wasn't bad and they really seem to be
pretty sturdy.
jt
--
James J. Trobaugh
North Georgia LEGO Train Club
http://www.ngltc.org
John Neal <johnneal@uswest.net> wrote in message
news:3AFA123D.6D7C5868@uswest.net...
>
>
> Steve Chapple wrote:
>
> > In lugnet.org.ca.nalug, Michel Magnan writes:
> > > ...The ["standard" LEGO train table] legs are very labor intensive,
> > > and I still haven't finished the legs from the tables I made last year.
> > > I believe that the PNLTC guys have eliminated the attachable legs, due
> > > to the long set up time. If we could somehow use folding legs that • would
> > > save a lot of time, both now and in the future. Steve could you post
> > > to the IOLTC asking them about their current table standards?
> >
> > I did so, and John Neal started to reply, but then figured it would
> > be better to discuss it here so that others could contribute to - and
> > benefit from - the discussion. OK John - you have the floor... 8-)
>
> Ahem, well, okay then:-)
>
> First off, I will say that there is no current "standard". The GMLTC used
> 30"x45" tables for our last layout (actually just a skosh longer on each
> dimension to avoid module buckling). This size is convenient because it • is
> the area of 6 large gray baseplates. For the legs we used regular ol' • metal
> folding ones you can buy at any Home Depot or such for about $12 (for a
> pair). They are 30" high.
>
> I think we used 1/2 thick plywood, but the tables were reinforced with a • rim
> of 2x4s underneath for added stremph. We ran them long ways. Here is a
> schematic of the old layout:
> http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=2213
> The flared-out modules were the last ones we built and where we got taste • of
> a deeper size with which to work. Our new layout was supposed to be the • same
> dimensions, only turned 90 degrees to make the depth be 45". In fact, we
> even set some standards with the Mike Poindexter of the BayLTC.
> Unfortunately, due to space limitations in our trailer, we had to alter • our
> dimensions. In order to maximize what space was available to us, we • decided
> to go with the tables being 40"x60" (long ways). Conan is having the • frames
> for these modules built from aluminum, so we are digressing away from any
> sort of standard.
>
> Having said all of that, I would say that if there were to be some • standard,
> I would recommend 30 x 45, and have the tables be 30" high. This is what • I
> use for my home layout. Personally, I used 3/4 plywood and no bracing. I
> used high quality plywood (birch, I think), and had Home Depot cut them • right
> there. The other nice thing about 30 x 45 is that you get 3 tables out of • 1
> sheet of 4' x 8' with little waste. The folding legs screw in easily, and
> you're good to go. 30 x 45 is easy to handle and maneuver, and can fit
> through most doorways flat. I run mine 45" deep like the BayLTC layout • does,
> although I am only building up my modules 16 bricks, which is the minimum
> I've found to allow for subway car clearance.
>
> Uh, I guess I rambled on a little more than I had planned:-p Any other
> thoughts about setting a standard for tables?
>
> -John
>
> > L#765
> > StRuCtures
>
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For the train clubs that use folding legs, I was wondering if you could answer
the following:
1. If you don't have enough Lego bricks to cover the entire surface of the
talbles, how do you hold the adjacent tables together?
2. Do you have a problem with keeping the tables at the same height, given
the varrying floring conditions at various venues?
3. Can you alter the height of the folding legs, the PNLTC refers to some
kind of "pipe sock" to do this. Anyone have any idea as to how this was
done?
Thanks for your time.
Michel Magnan
> I agree that the folding legs are the way to go if you want to save space in
> transporting them and setting up. I used the "conventional" bolt on legs for
> a year and that was all I could take. I was tired of being the last group to
> leave the train shows. So I converted our tables to use the folding table
> legs:
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1) We don't cover our tables with bricks (they are painted LEGO brick
green), we use spring loaded clamps to hold the tables together (they're
about a $1 a piece at Home Depot)
2)I always take a few pieces of cardboard with me to shim up the tables if
the floor isn't level, they work great and I just toss them after the show.
3) I believe the pipe they're referring to is just PVC pipe that fits over
the legs
Hope that helps,
jt
--
James J. Trobaugh
North Georgia LEGO Train Club
http://www.ngltc.org
Michel Magnan <m_magnan@telusplanet.net> wrote in message
news:GDI6pF.C0w@lugnet.com...
> For the train clubs that use folding legs, I was wondering if you could • answer
> the following:
> 1. If you don't have enough Lego bricks to cover the entire surface of the
> talbles, how do you hold the adjacent tables together?
> 2. Do you have a problem with keeping the tables at the same height, • given
> the varrying floring conditions at various venues?
> 3. Can you alter the height of the folding legs, the PNLTC refers to some
> kind of "pipe sock" to do this. Anyone have any idea as to how this was
> done?
> Thanks for your time.
> Michel Magnan
>
> > I agree that the folding legs are the way to go if you want to save space • in
> > transporting them and setting up. I used the "conventional" bolt on legs • for
> > a year and that was all I could take. I was tired of being the last group • to
> > leave the train shows. So I converted our tables to use the folding table
> > legs:
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