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Hello everyone and thanks for all the feedback on my last posting!
I've been away from the computer for the past couple days so I wasn't able
to answer all of the replies it produced, hence I'm doing it all at once here.
In the next week I will post more pictures as I've been itching to get working
on my web site again. I still need to take a lot more pictures as I have a lot
of stuff to share that I haven't even photographed yet!
I think the question on the style of architecture my buildings are has been
thoroughly discussed already, so I won't drag that out any more. The influence
for making my castle buildings in the half-timber style reflects what I've seen
in pictures as well as my own travels across Europe. The old Lego idea book
with the town / space / castle them also gave me some good ideas when I was
getting started about 20 years ago. (it has a cool yellow castle hybrid model
with an Inn type building in it. Personally, I can't stand the yellow/red and
black wall sections that Lego has come up with to represent this type of
architecture, hence I do my own.
As for the 1 plate horizontal vs. 1 brick vertical, yes it represents a
problem of scale. However, in buildings of this type, only load supporting
horizontal beams are actually as big as the vertical uprights, and thus you get
smaller mid-level beams. I usually make the beams at floor levels two plates
thick, but I skimped on this model to conserve pieces. The problem of a lack
of angle beams can easily be solved with black vinyl adhesive tape (the kind
sign makers use). I've been meaning to get to an art supply store to buy some,
but haven't gotten around to it. Black electrical tape would probably work too
if you don't mind the sticky crap it leaves behind when you remove it!
Since it was asked, no, the inn does not open up like the barn model. The
front portion of it was originally built as part of the outer-baily town of my
previous castle. Because there was so many buildings of this type I didn't
make all of them open up. When I tore the castle down I kept this building
because I liked it so much. The stable and the kitchen (not visible in the
picture) were added later and aren't actualy finished with detailing. I have
developed a modular system for castle town/city making and I will make L-draw
plans available as soon as I buy a PC or a dumb pill for my Mac.
My goal for the next two months is to push ahead with finishing at least
the remaining architecture details of my casle (the roof on the great hall and
kitchens, etc.). Then the next step will be outfitting the interiors and then
of course working on the outer bailey, harbor and town.
.... well, my wife just got home after a 13 hour day at work and I'm going
to end this to visit with her for a while. thanks again for all the feedback
and take care!
Dan
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> As for the 1 plate horizontal vs. 1 brick vertical, yes it represents a
> problem of scale. However, in buildings of this type, only load supporting
> horizontal beams are actually as big as the vertical uprights, and thus you • get
> smaller mid-level beams. I usually make the beams at floor levels two plates
> thick, but I skimped on this model to conserve pieces. The problem of a lack
> of angle beams can easily be solved with black vinyl adhesive tape (the kind
> sign makers use). I've been meaning to get to an art supply store to buy • some,
> but haven't gotten around to it. Black electrical tape would probably work • too
> if you don't mind the sticky crap it leaves behind when you remove it!
>
>
I found a nice and realistic way to place a horizontal lego piece across to
make Tudor (easier than saying Half Timber) :)
Lord Doyle Of Nelsonshire
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Care to share it???
>
> I found a nice and realistic way to place a horizontal lego piece across to
> make Tudor (easier than saying Half Timber) :)
>
> Lord Doyle Of Nelsonshire
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Doyle wrote:
> I found a nice and realistic way to place a horizontal lego piece >across to make Tudor (easier than saying Half Timber) :)
Horizontal is OK: how about diagonal? That's the hard part (even the
miniland half-timbered buildings use stepped standard bricks which looks
bad close up).
Kevin
--
Email: kwilson_tccs@compuserve.com
Web page:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/kwilson_tccs/default.html
eBay Page: http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/kevinw1/
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In lugnet.castle, Kevin Wilson writes:
> Doyle wrote:
>
> > I found a nice and realistic way to place a horizontal lego piece >across to • make Tudor (easier than saying Half Timber) :)
>
> Horizontal is OK: how about diagonal? That's the hard part (even the
> miniland half-timbered buildings use stepped standard bricks which looks
> bad close up).
After thinking about this one, the only thing I can think of would be to put
1x1 or 1x2 technic beams w/ single hole in the wall, with a technic 1/2 peg,
and then stick on long black tiles at the desired angles. It probably wouldn't
look HORRIBLE, but at least it's something... would look better if you also did
the vertical and horizontal timbers the same way, but then you run into more
angling problems... anyway, a thought for all the "purists" out there that
don't want to use black tape :)
DaveE
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In lugnet.castle, Kevin Wilson writes:
> Doyle wrote:
>
> > I found a nice and realistic way to place a horizontal lego piece >across to • make Tudor (easier than saying Half Timber) :)
>
> Horizontal is OK: how about diagonal? That's the hard part (even the
> miniland half-timbered buildings use stepped standard bricks which looks
> bad close up).
>
> Kevin
Darn! I meant Diagonal! It was late :)
Doyle
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