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Micro Steam Engine
Ive always thought that the Technic
Competition Cannon 2 x 6 x 3 looked like the boiler from a steam engine. When
I came across it again taking the Wookie Catamaran apart a few months ago I
finally decided to take a crack at turning it into one.
An initial prototype came together pretty quickly and over the next few weeks it
eventually evolved into what you see here. Huge props go to Daniel Jette
(co-worker and fellow ParLUGment member) for giving me tonnes of great feedback.
Unlike me he actually knows a thing or two about trains. Without the many
discussions we had about pretty much every minute detail it never would have
evolved into its current form.
Ive provided instructions as well. Theres a lot of friction based connections
but they are all quite strong. The only dicey one is the front light. If its
loose after you stick it in just rotate it until its tight. The slots at the
end of the half pin have to be oriented vertically otherwise it will just fall
out.
Enjoy,
J
| | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.announce.moc, Jason Allemann wrote:
That is awesome, And I LOVE your solution to micro fig scale track, perfection!
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.build.microscale, Tim McSweeney wrote:
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In lugnet.announce.moc, Jason Allemann wrote:
That is awesome, And I LOVE your solution to micro fig scale track,
perfection!
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Thanks Tim!
Because the tracks are 2 studs wide on the inside they perfectly fit bogeys
designed with 1x1 rounds separated by 3 plates. Tony Hafners
2-Wide Diesel Freight
Train is a great example of a train using this technique.
The only problem arises when you want to introduce a curve into the track. I
havent figured that one out yet. :)
J
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.build.microscale, Jason Allemann wrote:
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The only problem arises when you want to introduce a curve into the track. I
havent figured that one out yet. :)
J
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The 1 x 2 version of the rail plate was suggested in another post.
Im wondering how you would use a mag-lev method to motorize the train on these
rails, something like this that
was created in Europe.
Paul Sinasohn
LUGNET #115
BAYLUG/BAYLTC
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.build.microscale, Paul Sinasohn wrote:
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In lugnet.build.microscale, Jason Allemann wrote:
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The only problem arises when you want to introduce a curve into the track. I
havent figured that one out yet. :)
J
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The 1 x 2 version of the rail plate was suggested in another post.
Im wondering how you would use a mag-lev method to motorize the train on
these rails, something like this that was created in Europe.
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Yeah, when I eventually get some time Id like to experiment with Peers
magnetic propulsion idea. The rail system might require a few modifications,
especially in how the space between the rails is constructed, but Im pretty
sure it could work.
J
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Paul Sinasohn
LUGNET #115
BAYLUG/BAYLTC
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| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.announce.moc, Jason Allemann wrote:
Thank you very much, Jason.
Nice work!
Ed
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | Looks amazing! What is the dk grey piece you used for tracks? This is one of the
best odd-piece solutions Ive seen in ages, perhaps ever : )
God Bless,
Nathan
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.build.microscale, Nathan Todd wrote:
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Looks amazing! What is the dk grey piece you used for tracks? This is one of
the best odd-piece solutions Ive seen in ages, perhaps ever : )
God Bless,
Nathan
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Looks like this, with tiles on
top. Very nice.
Marc Nelson Jr.
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.build.microscale, Nathan Todd wrote:
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Looks amazing! What is the dk grey piece you used for tracks? This is one of
the best odd-piece solutions Ive seen in ages, perhaps ever : )
God Bless,
Nathan
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Thanks for the comments Nathan!
As Marc mentioned, the track is made up of door rail pieces with tiles on top,
fit snugly into the space between the wall of a 1 x 2 panel and an adjacent
brick. See the picture below.
I actually used grill 1x2 gray tiles instead of solid tiles along the door rails
since I had a lot more.
If anyone actually builds track for the engine, note that I cheat a bit when
placing the engine on the track. I attach 2
1x2 jumper plates onto the bottom of the
engine to keep it centered between the tracks.
J
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As Marc mentioned, the track is made up of door rail pieces with tiles on
top, fit snugly into the space between the wall of a 1 x 2 panel and an
adjacent brick. See the picture below.
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Wow, that is even more complicated than I first realised. I hadnt noticed the
studs up section between the rails, and didnt realise what the gauge was.
In my head I was visualising a full-snot solution something like:
(This is a slightly wider gauge, but that can be adjusted easily)
Of course, Once youd hit upon the basic idea of using the door rails as actual
rails there are probably myriad ways of putting it into practice.
If you ha a deep enough base if hide the necessary substructure it might be
possible to approximate curves using the 1x2 plate with door rail and a
complex set of hinges and wedges.
Tim.
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.build.microscale, Tim McSweeney wrote:
snip
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Wow, that is even more complicated than I first realised. I hadnt noticed
the studs up section between the rails, and didnt realise what the gauge
was.
In my head I was visualising a full-snot solution something like:
<http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/tmcsweeney/Misc/MicroTrack/microtrack1.jpg
(This is a slightly wider gauge, but that can be adjusted easily)
Of course, Once youd hit upon the basic idea of using the door rails as
actual rails there are probably myriad ways of putting it into practice.
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Yeah, I had quite a few variations for the track construction, a full snot one
as youve illustrated among them. I opted for the studs up style to give the
impression of gravel between the railway ties.
I actually had 4 different gauge variations of just the studs up style - with 1
stud, 1.5 studs, 2 studs and 2.5 studs spacing between the tracks. Even though
the 2 stud spacing was technically too large for the scale I was building to
(approximately 3 feet per stud), it ended up looking the best and being the most
practical.
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If you ha a deep enough base if hide the necessary substructure it might be
possible to approximate curves using the 1x2 plate with door rail and a
complex set of hinges and wedges.
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Yes, I may explore this possibility when I get a chance. Thanks for the
feedback!
J
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | Mr.Allemann, you are a god among men. Both in terms of your uncanny good looks
and your uncanny Micro skillz. Meeting you at BrickFest was a moment that Ill
wish Id never forget (yet might, cuz I totally sloshed).
-Lenny
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.build.microscale, Leonard Hoffman wrote:
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Mr.Allemann, you are a god among men. Both in terms of your uncanny good
looks and your uncanny Micro skillz. Meeting you at BrickFest was a moment
that Ill wish Id never forget (yet might, cuz I totally sloshed).
-Lenny
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LOL, thanks Lenny. Im flatterd on both counts. Cant wait until next year!
J
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.announce.moc, Jason Allemann wrote:
That so totally rocks, Jason. Im building that tonight... guess Im just gonna
have to stay up later getting ready for NWBC. Very nice work, as always. The
outline of the train is right on.
My only complaint is builders like you setting the bar so danged high that
builders like me can only see you with a telescope. :)
Kelly
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.announce.moc, Jason Allemann wrote:
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Micro Steam
Engine
Ive always thought that the Technic
Competition Cannon 2 x 6 x 3 looked like the boiler from a steam engine.
When I came across it again taking the Wookie Catamaran apart a few months
ago I finally decided to take a crack at turning it into one.
An initial prototype came together pretty quickly and over the next few weeks
it eventually evolved into what you see here. Huge props go to Daniel Jette
(co-worker and fellow ParLUGment member) for giving me tonnes of great
feedback. Unlike me he actually knows a thing or two about trains. Without
the many discussions we had about pretty much every minute detail it never
would have evolved into its current form.
Ive provided instructions as well. Theres a lot of friction based
connections but they are all quite strong. The only dicey one is the front
light. If its loose after you stick it in just rotate it until its tight.
The slots at the end of the half pin have to be oriented vertically otherwise
it will just fall out.
Enjoy,
J
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Jason,
Wonderful model! While I am busy on other projects, some really cool workis
going on, and I feel a little behind the curve :-) !
Your micro work is very impressive - your farm was really cool at BrickFest and
this is great and a great use of a part!
Joe
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