 | | Re: DCC and LEGO Trains —James Powell
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| | | (...) It depends, do you want lights or to run a 2nd motor slaved to the first? You wouldn't run over the 1 A limit, since you would have (C 25 Ohms/motor, 25/2=13 ohms circuit, 9/13=less than 1 amp). You should NOT try to run 3 motors connected to (...) (25 years ago, 5-Mar-00, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | Re: DCC and LEGO Trains —Dean Husby
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| | | | (...) Actually it is rather easy to do that. I've done that for my RCX Train. Unfortunately I didn't take picks of my working on the motor but I've got some pics of the completed item. (URL) image shows a second wire coming out of the motor just (...) (25 years ago, 5-Mar-00, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | Re: DCC and LEGO Trains —James Powell
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| | | | (...) That is a different way, I was thinking of having the plates replace the other end of the motor...just realized that that wouldn't work, because then you wouldn't have anywhere to mount the coupler. James (25 years ago, 5-Mar-00, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | Re: DCC and LEGO Trains —Dean Husby
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| | | | | (...) Exactly. I was at first going to mount plate on the side, below the aux port. But it was such a bear to get exact that I just decided to use a wire and glue it in place. It was nerve racking working on a $40 motor but quite simple looking (...) (25 years ago, 6-Mar-00, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | Re: DCC and LEGO Trains —Mike Poindexter
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| | | | (...) some (...) RCX) (...) Don't mount the coupler on the motor. Attach it to the frame of the loco (with a turntable allowing it swivel)and extend it out a bit. Of course, this only works well when the train extends a bit further than the motor, (...) (25 years ago, 6-Mar-00, to lugnet.trains)
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