Subject:
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Re: DCC and LEGO Trains
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.trains
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Date:
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Sun, 5 Mar 2000 19:21:33 GMT
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Viewed:
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1617 times
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James Powell wrote:
> > > Suppose that in addition to modifying motors to install DCC receivers
> > > (call them masters) we also modified motors to cut the connection
> > > between the motor and the power pickups on the wheels, but LEFT the
> > > motor actively connected to the power connection on the top of the motor
> > > casing... (call these slaves)
> >
> > that won't work with the current setup, since the upper power connection is
> > controlled seperatly from the speed - that way the lights don't dim when
> > you slow down the train. (which is cool on it's own). Perhaps it's
> > possible not to do that, and then I think your idea would work - but I
> > don't know that much about the DCC, only what I could understand from Tom.
>
> It depends, do you want lights or to run a 2nd motor slaved to the first? You
> wouldn't run over the 1 A limit, since you would have (C 25 Ohms/motor, 25/2=13
> ohms circuit, 9/13=less than 1 amp). You should NOT try to run 3 motors
> connected to the same reciever, at least, not if it is a 1A reciever.
>
> The only way that I can see to manage to get lights and be able to slave the
> motors would involve trying to get a 2nd connection inside the motor, at the
> other end. (Idea for Lego, but not so easy for the rest of us!)
>
> James P
Actually it is rather easy to do that. I've done that for my RCX Train.
Unfortunately I didn't take picks of my working on the motor but I've got some pics
of the completed item.
http://www.akasa.bc.ca/tfm/lego/trnmot12.jpg
This image shows a second wire coming out of the motor just below the aux port. The
aux port now supplies power from the track. (This feeds into my RCX) then the
second wire runs to the Output port on the RCX. If you were to make an external DCC
unit you could wire it up the same way. This way, lights stay on all the time and
powers any items you wish and you have full control over the motor.
It's simple to do, open the motor and put electrical tape over the tabs that press
against the motor.
Then solder wires onto the little eye tabs coming out of the motor. It's that easy!
(Just make sure you pass the wire around any moving parts...)
Dean
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Message has 1 Reply:
 | | Re: DCC and LEGO Trains
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| (...) That is a different way, I was thinking of having the plates replace the other end of the motor...just realized that that wouldn't work, because then you wouldn't have anywhere to mount the coupler. James (25 years ago, 5-Mar-00, to lugnet.trains)
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Message is in Reply To:
| | Re: DCC and LEGO Trains
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| (...) It depends, do you want lights or to run a 2nd motor slaved to the first? You wouldn't run over the 1 A limit, since you would have (C 25 Ohms/motor, 25/2=13 ohms circuit, 9/13=less than 1 amp). You should NOT try to run 3 motors connected to (...) (25 years ago, 5-Mar-00, to lugnet.trains)
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