Subject:
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Re: Has anyone disassembled a 9v Train Motor?
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.trains, lugnet.robotics
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Date:
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Mon, 3 Jan 2000 21:32:38 GMT
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Viewed:
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1383 times
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Sooner or later I'm going to try what I talked about in another thread - pulling the
motor out of the shell, and adding in a capacitor and other circuits, so that the
capacitor feeds non-stop 9V to lights or other circuits, while the "main" circuit
feeds the PWM 9V from the tracks (once I set up an RIS to power the track).
If my layout gets too big, I'll use the RIS to feed an amplifier circuit to power the
tracks. I'm still hoping TLC creates a SuperBrick, with more I/O, so I can just use
one or 2 SuperBricks for the entire train setup, rather than manymany RISes.
The other idea is to build a custom circuit to power the track that uses PWM, and also
feeds a digital signal through the track. Each train would have an empty train motor
shell with circuitry in it to read the digital signals and turn its' motor on/off,
power whistles/lights/smoke generators, etc.
Dean Husby wrote:
> Ben Jackson wrote:
>
> > Has anyone investigated the possibility of disconnecting the motor from the
> > pickups on the wheels so it can be powered from the top plate without driving
> > other trains on the same track? Ideally one of the two top connections would
> > still connect to the wheels (so you could short it if you wanted the standard
> > behavior).
> >
> > I'm thinking of building a switching car with a Scout in it which is commanded
> > by a (stationary) RCX. The Scout would drive around the switchyard to build
> > trains based on information sent via IR from the RCX. I've always wanted a
> > computer controlled train layout AND a LEGO train layout, so this is my
> > excuse! I'm sure going to be poor after buying all the track and switches I'll
> > need, though!
> >
> > --Ben
>
> I've done just that.
>
> It's easy.
>
> I added a second wire directly to the motor. It even has little eye connectors for
> putting the wires.
> To avoid the motor from going to the main power I simply put electrical tape over
> the pressure pressed power connectors inside the unit.
>
> The hardest part was feeding and securing the new wire out of the unit (out the
> front beneath the ax power connector). You have to be careful to make sure it
> doesn't rub on the axle inside. Over time it could wear thing and cause a short.
>
> So my track feeds the aux connector that feeds the lights and my Lego RCX power
> connector. Then the RCX is always powered and controls my train.
>
> Pics available if necessary.
>
> Dean
--
| Tom Stangl, Technical Support Netscape Communications Corp
| Please do not associate my personal views with my employer
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