 | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie —Ahui Herrera
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| | | How would you put gaps in the train track? Should you just separate the track say 1/4 inch? (...) your (...) sort. (...) (25 years ago, 23-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie —Jim Rorstrom
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| | | | | (...) Take the track sections apart where you want the gap, cover the metal ends of both sections with tape and put back together. Black electrical tape is an obvious choice but, is a little thick. I use silver duct tape. It matches the color of the (...) (25 years ago, 23-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie —Kim Toll
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| | | | | | | Jim Rorstrom wrote in message ... (...) track (...) of (...) the (...) need to (...) no (...) You can also just separate the two pieces of track by one stud. I have found that to work quite well. Even the small train wheels go across this small gap (...) (25 years ago, 23-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie —Larry Pieniazek
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| | | | | | Careful, some brands of silver duct tape are conductive. Electrical tape is better. For an all LEGO solution, merely mount the track ends one stud apart. The wheels cross over fine, and if you do it on a straight, you can put a baseplate or large (...) (25 years ago, 23-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie —Steve Martin
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| | | | | | (...) Wouldn't that throw off the alignment of the rest of the track in other places by being a stud off? Is there a way to get around this? (I'm thinking specifically of situations where the entire layout is mounted on baseplates). Steve Martin (25 years ago, 23-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie —John Gerlach
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| | | | | | | (...) The track is flexible enough that you can adjust the alignment - and if you're trying to mount everything down to baseplates you're going to have to get creative in the corners anyway... John1, GMLTC (25 years ago, 23-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | | | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie —Frank Filz
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| | | | | | | | (...) One more thing in my "wish" list. Molded roadbed pieces which have some way to fix them to baseplates, preferably adjustable (in which case the edges would have to sit above the studs). If they were'nt adjustable, they could get away with 5 (...) (25 years ago, 23-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie —Ahui Herrera
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| | | | | | | (...) Steve don't forget that you are going to have two section of track that will be separated in this fashion so the two gaps should 'even out' in the end and you should not have this problem you are talking about. At least that is the case in my (...) (25 years ago, 23-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie —James Powell
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| | | | | | (...) No, because the curves don't mount to the baseplates. James P (25 years ago, 23-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | | | track curves on baseplates (was: Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie) —Charles Eric McCarthy
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| | | | | | (...) As long as the track is elevated at least one plate, it's easy to put the curves on the baseplates. Just use some 1-stud plates (1x1 or 1x2) and some tiles in places the studs don't line up. As it pertains to this discussion, if the place (...) (25 years ago, 24-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie —James Powell
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| | | | (...) There are a couple of ways. 1. Separate them by 1 stud. (all lego solution, only good on tangent (straight) track) 2. With some scotch tape. Tape over the ends carefully, and clip the track together. Not quite all LEGO solution, but not (...) (25 years ago, 23-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie —Paul Foster
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| | | | | (...) track (...) Ok then, what happens after you have created separate blocks when the train goes from one block to the other? For example, how do you get the speed regulator for each block matched up enough so the train just take on a blast of (...) (25 years ago, 23-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie —James Powell
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| | | | | | (...) If the controllers are set to the same "notch" (there are only 5 speed levels each direction on a lego controller) then the train will not really speed up or slow down much. I usually just set the 2 throttles to about the right level, and let (...) (25 years ago, 23-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie —Frank Filz
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| | | | (...) One more all LEGO solution, which also maintains the geometry: 4. turnout (25 years ago, 23-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie —Larry Pieniazek
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| | | | (...) It takes two turnouts to completely isolate one section from another... each turnout only isolates one rail, so you mount them back to back facing in opposite directions. (25 years ago, 23-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie —Frank Filz
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| | | | (...) Of course for many isolation purposes, one rail is sufficient. In fact, in most model railroad wiring, one rail is left connected throughout the layout as a ground. The problem with trying to do this with LEGO trains is that there is no (...) (25 years ago, 23-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie —Larry Pieniazek
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| | | | (...) One of several reasons why I switched from Snap Track turnouts to Custom Line when I was about 13... would that I had switched from brass to nickel silver at the same time and you all might never have been plagued by my presence here, nickel (...) (25 years ago, 23-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie —Tony Priestman
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| | | | On Tue, 23 Nov 1999, Larry Pieniazek (<383ABCCC.767908F9@...ager.net>) wrote at 16:11:56 (...) And nickel oxide conducts electricity :-) (25 years ago, 23-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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