 | | Non-standard track connections —Mario Ferrari
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| | | Hello everybody, I have two problems two solve that I imagine many of you guys solved years ago. I used the Lugnet search engine but wasn't able to find the tricks... 1) How can I electrically insulate a section of tracks, I mean two adiacent tracks (...) (25 years ago, 28-Sep-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | Re: Non-standard track connections —John Gerlach
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| | | | | (...) 9volt trains will jump that gap with no problems at all. You can kind of see it in this picture, between the grey bascule bridge and the adjoining truss bridge: (URL) bascule section drops down 1 stud apart from the 'fixed' section, it comes (...) (25 years ago, 28-Sep-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | | Re: Non-standard track connections —Larry Pieniazek
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| | | | | | (...) John didn't say which question he was answering. As it turns out, this trick works BOTH to electrically insulate track sections AND to let them be mechanically separated. If you only want electrical insulation your options depend on your (...) (25 years ago, 28-Sep-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | | | Re: Non-standard track connections —Mario Ferrari
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| | | | | | John, Larry, Derick... thanks a lot for your help. I think I go with the most impure solutions: electrical tape and exacto knife. This because I don't like to keep the tracks one stud apart. My Lego ethic too doesn't preclude removing parts, after (...) (25 years ago, 30-Sep-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | Re: Non-standard track connections —Derick Bulkley
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| | | | (...) I used an exacto saw to remove the metal contact 'nib' from the joint. I put a red 1x2 tile on that piece so I don't lose it (in all my other track). I learned the hard way - trying to find a piece of track among a huge pile! (...) I sawed off (...) (25 years ago, 28-Sep-99, to lugnet.trains)
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