Subject:
|
Re: Silver Champion
|
Newsgroups:
|
lugnet.technic
|
Date:
|
Sat, 14 Apr 2001 03:37:14 GMT
|
Viewed:
|
2137 times
|
| |
|
|
In lugnet.technic, Gaurav Thakur writes:
> I'll be putting up a website with lengthy reviews of some sets (the ones I
> have) in a while...I guess I'll give a bit more information there...
Great! I'll love to see it.
When I just came out of my dark ages and had no clue on the various sets that
came out when I was away from LEGO I found this sight:
http://www.westwood.u-net.com/lego/reviews.htm
And it really helped me with my LEGO Technic education and served as a good
buying reference (what to buy and what are the more interesting sets to get
from eBay).
It's really useful to get an opinion from one man about various sets - that
way you can get an idea about how close your tastes are and perform some kind
of "normalization" of his marks and opinions about the different sets.
If I had the time I'd create a sight too, but I don't, and further more it's
also hard to sit down and once and for all decide _exactly_ what is your
opinion about a set, especially if you want to grade it against other sets.
(for example I'm still not sure if I like the fact that the
Destroyer droid uses no gears at all and if it's better or worse
than <set:8428>)
> > On the cons side, it is certainly more a mix of Model Team & Technic than a
> > pure Technic set, it has very few functions (more or less like <set:8428> or
> > <set:8445> with 3 times less parts) and even the suspension which is the
> > hardest bit is done using special elements that make the building somewhat
> > easier.
>
> Yeah I noticed that too...they might have been able to achive the same
> effect with covered flex cables for the suspension system, although it would
> probably be a bit less effective...
Well, I think their main purpose is to push the springs when the wheel is
pushed upwards, so a flex cable will certainly not replace them efficiently -
the flex cables are designed to pull, not push. Considering the strength
of the new springs (which is even enlarged in the model's rear suspension
using a lever that is longer at the spring's end than at the wheel's end) even
with those new pieces I was surprised that they performed so well - I thought
at the beginning that they'll bend much more than they actually did.
> > A few question though:
> > I had some trouble inserting the engine block into it's place behind the • seat
> > assembly. After some tinkering, checking & rechecking of the instructions I
> > concluded that the entire seat assembly should have been placed a stud • closer
> > to the car's front (it also improves other aspects of the car's assembly and
> > looks).
> > Did anybody else reach that conclusion? Did anybody encounter any trouble • with
> > the placement of the engine block (or is it just an error on my side)?
>
> That's interesting...I also did think that the seat was a bit too close to
> the engine. It would probably look a bit better if the engine was placed
> slightly further back, or the seat forward...
>
> I really only had trouble getting the engine to stay in place after it was
> put into the correct position, since its only held to the main chassis by a
> few stud attachments. Kinda strange considering that the rest of the model
> is built so well...
Yes it is a little strange that the engine had no bracing what so ever.
Even so, when I transferred the seat a stud further the engine connection was
strong enough to lift the entire car holding just the engine block.
> > Also, the entire roof of the car that is loaded on the pneumatic springs • seems
> > to be blocked from descending to it's final position. It seems to rest about
> > 1cm above the place it should rest at. Again, did anyone have the same • problem
> > or is it just me?
>
> I was also having trouble with getting the "trunk" to go completely down...I
> think the problem lies in the fact that when the pneumatic shock absorbers
> are fully retracted; they actually stick out slightly below the car, so my
> guess is that they hit the floor before the thing closes completely. This
> actually gets a bit annoying, since I've had the lid suddenly open up when
> the car is pushed down slightly (to test the suspension)...
I don't think that's the reason. The "trunk" assembly hits the two
<part:32136> at the sides of the seat when it's lowered and makes the correct
low position impossible. Just to try this theory I removed them from the seat
and the trunk went down just fine. (It's not a solution because those two
elements are what holds the seat and some decoration pieces in place)
>
> Overall not a bad set, but I think for the high price it leaves much to be
> desired...
>
> -Gaurav Thakur, raving madman
> Can be reached at cp5670@supermail.com
- David
|
|
Message has 1 Reply:
 | | Re: Silver Champion
|
| (...) Thanks for your interest...I'll post a link here in a week or so when I have it operational (although it will probably take a while to write all those reviews). I've had a similar experience with that site...I didn't even know of the existence (...) (25 years ago, 14-Apr-01, to lugnet.technic)
|
Message is in Reply To:
| | Re: Silver Champion
|
| (...) I thought it wasn't too bad a set but was way overpriced; I bought it for the original $170 price and was far less than satisfied. Although you're right, the basic construction is very impressive. They actually don't use too many traditional (...) (25 years ago, 14-Apr-01, to lugnet.technic)
|
4 Messages in This Thread:
 
- Entire Thread on One Page:
- Nested:
All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:
All | Brief | Compact
This Message and its Replies on One Page:
- Nested:
All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:
All | Brief | Compact
|
|
|
|
