Subject:
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Re: Excessive clutziness when replacing the NiCad battery pack
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.robotics.handyboard
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Date:
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Tue, 7 Dec 1999 23:46:16 GMT
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Viewed:
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697 times
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Hello Bill ... Here is what I've done on both of my HandyBoards and
it's given good results. Cut the leads between the board and the
battery pack and add 2-pin polarized connectors.
Good luck and have fun,
- Nick -
Bill Bynum wrote:
>
> Hello, everyone:
>
> I'm having problems when I replace the HandyBoard's NiCad battery.
> I have probably replaced around 10 battery packs by now on different
> HandyBoards. On 4 or 5 of the replacements, I end up having to
> replace the 74HC373 latch, sometimes the 373 AND the memory, and
> on one occasion, the 373, the memory, AND the CPU.
>
> I disconnect the old battery from the leads soldered into the
> HandyBoard, plus lead first, then the negative. I leave the other
> ends of the two leads soldered into the HandyBoard. Yes, I realize
> that this is opposite to the way that Fred Martin tells us to attach
> the battery on original assembly, but once the HandyBoard is built,
> I hate to tamper with the board any more than I have to. I especially
> don't like to have to replace the 74HC373 latch, hence my posting!
>
> I solder the leads to the new battery in the reverse order,
> negative first, then the positive.
>
> The 373 gets destroyed in those times when I end up fumbling
> around with the positive lead, trying to poke it through the hole
> in the battery (shakey hands due to advanced age, I suppose).
> I suspect that this fumbling is causing a high enough transient
> voltage to ruin the 373.
>
> Do any of you have any tips for me? Is there a better way to
> swap HandyBoard batteries than I'm using?
>
> Thanks in advance for your advice.
>
> Bill Bynum
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