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Subject: 
RE: External Power Port Problem..?
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.robotics
Date: 
Thu, 9 Dec 1999 20:40:46 GMT
Original-From: 
Jonathan Perret <jperret@cybercable.fr/nospam/>
Reply-To: 
JPERRET@saynotospamCYBERCABLE.FR
Viewed: 
381 times
  
Try a PTC (positive temperature coefficient) fuse for current limiting. They
are available world wide through Digi-key, and I suspect Radio Shack will
have a limited selection. They are available in SMT or through hole, so
they'd be easy to fit in the RCX, if you wanted to take it apart. When they
heat up, due to excessive current, they open, then they close automatically
once they cool back down. They are much better then the old thermal circuit
breakers that had to be manually reset.

Thanks for the pointer. I'll remember to try these.
Oh, what rating would you suggest ? Maybe I just just measure what the RCX
pumps at full power (3 motors stalled...) and use that ?

I'd be cautious about connecting any AC supply directly to the battery
terminals, unless you know it will be converted to DC and regulated inside
the brick, which I doubt. If I were you I'd just use a DC wall wart with the
same rating as the batteries (9V). Make sure you get the polarity right.

Uh, I never even thought of putting AC current on the battery terminals !
It seems I did say "AC supply" but that's probably because I forgot to
think, and just copied what was being tossed around. Of course, I'd
use a regular multi-voltage DC converter, at 9V and the right
polarity...

Did the 1.0 RCX really take AC input, btw ??? I've never seen
anything but DC being supplied through plugs like that...

Cheers,
--Jonathan



Message has 1 Reply:
  Re: External Power Port Problem..?
 
Jonathan Perret wrote: [snip] (...) Hi Jonathan ... yep, the 1.0 RCX can take AC or either polarity DC. The LEGO wall wart supplied with their train delivers 10 or 11 volts AC ... and works fine on the RCX. Have fun, - Nick - (25 years ago, 9-Dec-99, to lugnet.robotics)

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