Subject:
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RE: External Power Port Problem..?
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.robotics
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Date:
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Thu, 9 Dec 1999 20:40:46 GMT
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Original-From:
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Jonathan Perret <jperret@cybercable.fr%spamless%>
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Reply-To:
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JPERRET@CYBERCABLE.nomorespamFR
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Viewed:
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539 times
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> Try a PTC (positive temperature coefficient) fuse for current limiting. They
> are available world wide through Digi-key, and I suspect Radio Shack will
> have a limited selection. They are available in SMT or through hole, so
> they'd be easy to fit in the RCX, if you wanted to take it apart. When they
> heat up, due to excessive current, they open, then they close automatically
> once they cool back down. They are much better then the old thermal circuit
> breakers that had to be manually reset.
Thanks for the pointer. I'll remember to try these.
Oh, what rating would you suggest ? Maybe I just just measure what the RCX
pumps at full power (3 motors stalled...) and use that ?
> I'd be cautious about connecting any AC supply directly to the battery
> terminals, unless you know it will be converted to DC and regulated inside
> the brick, which I doubt. If I were you I'd just use a DC wall wart with the
> same rating as the batteries (9V). Make sure you get the polarity right.
Uh, I never even thought of putting AC current on the battery terminals !
It seems I did say "AC supply" but that's probably because I forgot to
think, and just copied what was being tossed around. Of course, I'd
use a regular multi-voltage DC converter, at 9V and the right
polarity...
Did the 1.0 RCX really take AC input, btw ??? I've never seen
anything but DC being supplied through plugs like that...
Cheers,
--Jonathan
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Message has 1 Reply:
 | | Re: External Power Port Problem..?
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| Jonathan Perret wrote: [snip] (...) Hi Jonathan ... yep, the 1.0 RCX can take AC or either polarity DC. The LEGO wall wart supplied with their train delivers 10 or 11 volts AC ... and works fine on the RCX. Have fun, - Nick - (25 years ago, 9-Dec-99, to lugnet.robotics)
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