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 Robotics / 22807
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Subject: 
Re: Motorized Switch using Monkey Motor
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.trains, lugnet.robotics
Date: 
Thu, 9 Sep 2004 17:07:31 GMT
Viewed: 
208 times
  
In lugnet.trains, Larry Pieniazek wrote:
   In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
   Hi All,

Here’s an update of one of my earlier motorized switch designs. This design utilizes the new-style monkey(1) motor instead of the traditional Technic mini motor:

(snip)

Thanks for the update! Nice job on the renders for the instructions, by the way...

Glad you like them!

   Question: does this require switch modification to de-stiffenize the mechanism?

No, all that is required is a standard unmodified switch. The motor has more than enough torque to throw the switch. In fact, I recommend that you feed a lower voltage to the motor as the motorized switch may(1) loosen up over time if run with the full 9 volts. Here’s an excerpt from the notes.txt file in my Brickshelf folder:

“When operating this switch, use a low power setting on your power source. You can accomplish this by using a train controller set to speed step 3 or 4. You can then connect a polarity switch between the train controller and the motorized switch for use as your control lever. Or, to use an RCX as controller, just use a ~50% power setting when activating the motor.”

   Also I assume that this motor is DCC-able using the technique you demonstrated here: smart motor ?

Yes, all that remains is to modify the LDCC firmware to be configured to use a locomotive decoder (vs. a stationary decoder) when throwing a switch.

   That would be tres cool, remote controlled DCC switch with no receiver RCX required and in fact, no external connectors of any sort.

No more unsightly wires running all over the layout! All you need is a track connector going to the switch motor. In fact, since I’ve already modified some of my switches for DCC operation (i.e. both routes always powered), I plan on adding a short wire to each switch for connection straight to the smart motor.

Mark

(1) I say “may” because the grip strength of Lego pieces vary. Sometimes the switch will work indefinitely at full voltage, while another one might only operate a few dozen times before self destructing. However, when using a lower voltage, it holds together just fine. Supplying the lower voltage is easy since we all tend to have lots of extra train controllers sitting around! :-)



Message has 2 Replies:
  Re: Motorized Switch using Monkey Motor
 
(...) OK, thanks for the reminder! It sounds like maybe if you DCC-ise it, you would want the control program to issue non full power commands then? (...) I wish we could get track connectors and wires in bulk at good prices. (20 years ago, 9-Sep-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.robotics, FTX)
  Re: Motorized Switch using Monkey Motor
 
In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote: <snip> (...) <snip> Oh My Goodness! I didn't even think of that! I've modified all my switches to have both sides powered, but gettting a 9v wire out to a DCC enabled switch motor--that's extraordinarily (...) (20 years ago, 9-Sep-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.robotics)

Message is in Reply To:
  Re: Motorized Switch using Monkey Motor
 
(...) (snip) Thanks for the update! Nice job on the renders for the instructions, by the way... Question: does this require switch modification to de-stiffenize the mechanism? Also I assume that this motor is DCC-able using the technique you (...) (20 years ago, 9-Sep-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.robotics, FTX)

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