Subject:
|
Re: Motorized Switch using Monkey Motor
|
Newsgroups:
|
lugnet.trains, lugnet.robotics
|
Date:
|
Thu, 9 Sep 2004 17:07:31 GMT
|
Viewed:
|
208 times
|
| |
| |
In lugnet.trains, Larry Pieniazek wrote:
|
In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
|
Hi All,
Heres an update of one of my
earlier motorized
switch designs. This design utilizes the new-style monkey(1) motor
instead of the traditional Technic mini motor:
|
(snip)
Thanks for the update! Nice job on the renders for the instructions, by the
way...
|
Glad you like them!
|
Question: does this require switch modification to de-stiffenize the
mechanism?
|
No, all that is required is a standard unmodified switch. The motor has
more than enough torque to throw the switch. In fact, I recommend that
you feed a lower voltage to the motor as the motorized switch may(1) loosen up
over time if run with the full 9 volts. Heres an excerpt from the notes.txt
file in my Brickshelf folder:
When operating this switch, use a low power setting
on your power source. You can accomplish this by
using a train controller set to speed step 3 or 4.
You can then connect a polarity switch between the
train controller and the motorized switch for use as
your control lever. Or, to use an RCX as controller,
just use a ~50% power setting when activating the motor.
|
Also I assume that this motor is DCC-able using the technique you
demonstrated here: smart motor ?
|
Yes, all that remains is to modify the LDCC firmware to be configured to use a
locomotive decoder (vs. a stationary decoder) when throwing a switch.
|
That would be tres cool, remote controlled DCC switch with no receiver RCX
required and in fact, no external connectors of any sort.
|
No more unsightly wires running all over the layout! All you need is a track
connector going to the switch motor. In fact, since Ive already modified some
of my switches for DCC operation (i.e. both routes always powered), I plan on
adding a short wire to each switch for connection straight to the smart motor.
Mark
(1) I say may because the grip strength of Lego pieces vary. Sometimes the
switch will work indefinitely at full voltage, while another one might only
operate a few dozen times before self destructing. However, when using a lower
voltage, it holds together just fine. Supplying the lower voltage is easy since
we all tend to have lots of extra train controllers sitting around! :-)
|
|
Message has 2 Replies: | | Re: Motorized Switch using Monkey Motor
|
| In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote: <snip> (...) <snip> Oh My Goodness! I didn't even think of that! I've modified all my switches to have both sides powered, but gettting a 9v wire out to a DCC enabled switch motor--that's extraordinarily (...) (20 years ago, 9-Sep-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.robotics)
|
Message is in Reply To:
| | Re: Motorized Switch using Monkey Motor
|
| (...) (snip) Thanks for the update! Nice job on the renders for the instructions, by the way... Question: does this require switch modification to de-stiffenize the mechanism? Also I assume that this motor is DCC-able using the technique you (...) (20 years ago, 9-Sep-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.robotics, FTX)
|
13 Messages in This Thread:
- Entire Thread on One Page:
- Nested:
All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:
All | Brief | Compact
This Message and its Replies on One Page:
- Nested:
All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:
All | Brief | Compact
|
|
|
Active threads in Robotics
|
|
|
|