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In lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto, David Koudys wrote:
> http://sparky.i989.net/ltrain.htm
>
> The double switch works very nice.
>
> I'll see what I'm in the mood for next.
>
> As usual, let me know what you think!
>
> Dave K
Very interesting! I'd like some of those crossovers using both left and right
hand switches. I've not yet been brave enough to use my dremel on Lego like
that - I once cut a steel pole outside with the cutting disc and the disc
shattered and flew off - I wouldn't want that to happen in the house! I'll try
on an old sacrificial brick first till I'm more confident.
Since you're into modifying switches:
If you open the backs of the switches, and file off the lugs on the slider, you
can use micro motors to move the switches. You only have to break four of the
fourteen melted bits that are on the bit that sticks out from the track. Do
this with a small screwdriver. Then file off the lugs with a set of needle
files. Then close the switch up again and put tiny dabs of glue on the four
places where you broke the melted bits. I used standard DIY glue, though this
does melt the plastic surface, so don't spill it.
Once the switch is modified, the only resistance to overcome is that of the
electrical contacts. Do test the resistance before gluing up the switch. Use a
micro motor with its pulley belt driven onto a 16mm hub, with an 8-tooth cog on
this axle onto a rack placed over the two bits on the switch slider that stick
up.
Zoom in on these pictures to see the mechanisms:
motor on top of mechanism:
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=334092
motors on top or at the side of the mechanism:
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=334081
This arrangement is much smaller than using a 71427 motor, which is an advantage
both in terms of hiding the mechanism and keeping enough clearance for big
trains. The micro motor mechanism only uses 2 studs in between tracks, leaving
a clearance of 7 studs from each track centre. I have an engine whose valve
gear is rather wide (total width 13 studs) but this will clear a micro motor
mechanism.
The mechanism takes a realistic 5 seconds to change the switch, building up
tension in the small white elastic belt as it does so.
Regarding your double curved switch, it's great for 6-wide railways, but not
mine, which is 8mm:1ft scale (8-10 wide). I space out the curves with straights
because the engines are so long.
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=334125
My trains will cope with a 1.5 curve on a switch, but not a double curve.
Have you made any half-straights or half-curves yet? There was a rumour of a
half-straight from TLC and I'd like to see it produced in packs. This would
smooth out the curves on my layout considerably!
Keep on cutting!
Mark Bellis
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Message has 1 Reply:
 | | Re: Modifying 9v Wyes
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| (...) That's what I did--I have a whole box full of broken and other misshapen LEGO bricks and I tried dremelling a few of those first. Then I cut up 30 dollar switches :) (...) I own 2 micromotors and about 20 regular motors. I think I'll stick (...) (20 years ago, 29-Mar-04, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto, lugnet.trains)
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