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Subject: 
How to start on Lego® trains. What to buy? Which system? // For train FAQ
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.trains, lugnet.market.theory
Followup-To: 
lugnet.trains
Date: 
Thu, 22 Aug 2002 12:25:38 GMT
Viewed: 
79 times
  
Dear train fans,

once more I got a very general request from a Lego®-train-theme beginner. He
wants to know, how to start into the train theme in the best way. I know most
of these questins have been asked (and answered) in the past for several
times, but they have not found their way into the Lugnet-train-FAQ so far.
http://www.lugnet.com/~330/FAQ/Trains/

So I try to make up an answer now, that is good enough to be put into the FAQ
(or at least used as a FAQ answer in case of further requests).
Maybe someone can even give some more hints to make it as complete and
helpful as possible:

*************

To start into trains one has to choose one out of the two main systems
(additionally there is the 4.5V battery driven system as a third and a
completely none-compatible monorail 9Vbattery driven system as a fourth.) Most
run 9V trains nowadays, because it is 'everywhere' available and one has
fullest support.

Nevertheless 12V is still to be found at eBay and other places and the more
people decide to run 9V, the cheaper the 12V stuff gets. Both of these can be
mixed up (at least engines - but not their motors, waggons and buildings work
with every system.)

*********

So what are the main advantages and disadvantages of the old 12V system:

+ 12V has nice looking train stuff + very nice buildings
+ 12V has remote controled points, level crossings, signals (and this
gives more of the feeling as known from H0 gauge model railroad)
+ used track is cheaper than 9V track (even used one)
+ 12V motors are able to climb ramps easiely
+ 12V motors have hole to connect rods. Perfect for nice steam engines.
- good + complete sets of trains are (partly) really expensive
- the friction of the 12V waggons is quite high: no engine will pull
more than 4...5 waggons.
- the track gets easiely dirty and makes the running behaviour not to
good. Whenever you start playing after a break (longer than a week) you need
some time till the stuffs runs smooth again.
- track needs a quite flat surface (otherwise derailments will happen too
often)
- putting track together takes its time.....
- used motors and remote controlled stuff is (very) expensive
- stuff is harder to get in the US(, but quite common at ebay.de)

******************

These are the advantages and disadvantages of 9V:

+ perfect operational reliability (put it together and everything runs fine).
+ very quick assembling of any track layout
+ 'cheap' new rolling stock (especially at Shop@home under www.lego.com)
+ cheap motors (1 extra motor set is only 25$US) (Transformers are very cheap
to be bought used - never buy a new one.)
+ track looks better than 12V track
+ waggons run very smooth. 1 engine can pull dozens of (not too heavy) waggons
+ robust track design: kids can even make a stampede in shoes over it...
+ track can even be placed on lawn outside (but not for 365/year)
- no remote controlled stuff (but points give the voltage into one of the 2
outgoing lines: that makes it easy to use them as 'signals'.)
- the 'best' 9V sets are partly very expensive (4551, 4554, 4536)
- inclinations should not overstep 1 or 2 plates per track piece.
- geometry of track is partly poor (same for 12V) in comparison to H0 model
railroad.

******************

In conclusion I would advise to start with 9V if the train is meant for kids
or if the track layout has to be assembled and disassembled quite often in a
short time.
To start with 9V stuff have an open eye for sales of 4560/4561 sets at local
toy shops. Look for 4563 and 4559 at ebay (often sold with controller and more
track than originally included). Complete track assortments are to be found in
the new S@H train catalogue and offer a good discout price.

One may use 12V and be happy with it, if there is an existing 12V layout as a
start. 9V waggons run fine on 12V track and engines can be adapted in both
ways by exchange of the motors.
For a start take a look especially for set 7735: that is quite often sold a
prices below 9V starter sets. 7745 and even 7740 are now and then to be found
at reasonable prices (but have an open eye for for the condition: missing
stickers are a reason for 'collectors' not to bid on such an item - for a
starter (of for playing kids) that might be fine though.

************

Any further opinions and hints are welcome!

Kind Regards,

Reinhard 'Ben' Beneke


Similar topics have already been discussed in these two threads:
http://news.lugnet.com/trains/?n=7601
http://news.lugnet.com/trains/?n=8007



Message has 3 Replies:
  Re: How to start on Lego® trains. What to buy? Which system? // For train FAQ
 
I think you've just about said it all Ben, I'll add that 9V rails can be cleaned with a soft, dry cloth every couple weeks for optimum performance. -Harvey (22 years ago, 22-Aug-02, to lugnet.trains)
  Re: How to start on Lego® trains. What to buy? Which system? // For train FAQ
 
(...) Metroliner and my brother got the Load and haul Railroad. So we started in 9V when our dad knew about the 12V. He always said the track wasn't right and now we have a 9V empire layout. I still feature the Metroliner and Load and Haul Railroad (...) (22 years ago, 22-Aug-02, to lugnet.trains)
  Re: How to start on Lego® trains. What to buy? Which system? // For train FAQ
 
I agree with much of the other commentary, but just would like to toss in a few points: (...) But bargains can be found. (...) But 9v wheels work just fine (my 8 car 7740 runs quite nicely with 9v wheels on the passenger cars). (...) And wiping off (...) (22 years ago, 22-Aug-02, to lugnet.trains)

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