Subject:
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Re: Making Fake Pieces?
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.general
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Date:
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Tue, 9 Nov 1999 01:56:11 GMT
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Viewed:
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476 times
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WARNING: "purists" or those horrified by Lego part mutilation
should read no further...
...safety zone...
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I have had excellent experience with attaching 32x32 baseplates to
3/4" pine boards with 1/2" long screws (4 screws per plate, inset
one row back from each corner) The boards were ripped to one
baseplate width, and 2 or 3 baseplates long. The small brass screws had
"pan heads" that matched the diameter of a stud, and could be
covered by a brick. We ( my nephew and I ) used this arrangement
on 2 or 3 baseplate long boards, to make town modules that could be
"picked up and put away." We joined modules by connecting bricks
or plates across the seams.
I only do this to generic/easily-replacable green baseplates.
I too thought about using this approach to built a large ship, but with
the help of several traders/sellers I am going to attempt building
without the board, using a substantial qty of 12x24 (and some smaller)
green bricks. (Don't ask how much I have invested in this project,
I won't say, other than I have been accumulating parts for years.)
ymmv,
:?) bishop
Jamie Obrien wrote in message ...
> Hi, i need to use some steel rods (maybe timber) as a main support for
> one of my models. I need to do this for 2 reasons, have very little
> technic pieces, and doubt i could create the strength required anyway.
> What is the easiest (safest) way to stick Lego (old pieces of course)
> onto the support so i can attach it to the main ship. I though i could
> just glue them, but they may not hold. I'm also considering drilling
> pin holes and gettin heaps of connector pins, which would alleviate
> rotational stress problems, but then how do i disguise the main beam
> itself.
>
> BTW the models going to be pretty big (1.25m long, .75 widw, don't
> know how high yet. Up to core frame).
>
> Many thanks on any ideas!
> Jamie Obrien
> jamien@interworx.com.au
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