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In lugnet.trains, James Powell writes:
> "Ben" wrote:
>
> > The Lego® motors (especially the older ones) are very robust! I drove my first
> > 4.5 v motor for weeks with 12V and nothing happened, and I even drove it in
> > the bathroom underwater
>
> Ben, we have _got_ to hear the story of this! I used to make paddle
> "steamers", using Electical tape and Lego (the tape seals the Lego up quite
> well...except across the bottom...) I don't have any pic's here, and I doubt
> there are any at home...
>
> 4.5V motor mounted in the middle of 4 of the (10x24?) green plates with walls
> made of 1x bricks, wrapped with electrical tape. Bottom joints plated
> top/bottom with longish pieces to reduce the number of leaks. Float times up
> to about 15 min, before draining due to waterlevel aproaching batterybox. 4.5V
> (3*C) battery box used.
At the age of maybe 5 to 7 I built a paddle steamer too, but I used the red
swimming hulls of set 311:
http://www.lugnet.com/pause/search/?query=311-1
And I built it with a gap in the middle for the paddles shaft and placed my 103
motor avove that. (I dared to use that, because I got the 107 motor that days
also, but I really had no knowledge about electricity and water, just the
dump feeling that water would be wrong...)
But with the motor place high above the waterline (and rubber band transmission
to the paddle wheel, the ship alway tends to tilt.
So I changed the desingn and placed the heavy motor underneath the hull and
under the waterline. Still with rubber band as power transmission to the
paddlewheel whichs center has to lie just above the waterline.
And that ship worked (and swam) very good and stable! Years later I gave a drop
of oil into the motor and it works fine till today....
Regards,
Ben
P.s.: I damaged some bricks with strong soap water once: I played "rescue
divers" with the armless pre minifigs in that water (maybe quite hot with
nearly 40 °C) and they dived through the "foggy" water, to do ther jobs. And
all the bricks I used lost their capability to hold against each other. If I
just blow agaist those pre minifigs today, they break in parts....
I'm not sure if the heat or the soap damaged the ABS material.
[getting too off-topic here....]
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Reinhard "Ben" Beneke wrote:
> P.s.: I damaged some bricks with strong soap water once: I played "rescue
> divers" with the armless pre minifigs in that water (maybe quite hot with
> nearly 40 °C) and they dived through the "foggy" water, to do ther jobs. And
> all the bricks I used lost their capability to hold against each other. If I
> just blow agaist those pre minifigs today, they break in parts....
> I'm not sure if the heat or the soap damaged the ABS material.
> [getting too off-topic here....]
One possible explanation for this (since I have washed many bricks and
noticed this sometimes, but not most of the time): Dirty bricks will
have a layer of grit on them which could throw off the tolerances, and
will increase wear, especially anyplace there's a tight fit. When this
grit gets cleaned away in the soapy water, the bricks are now too loose.
Another possibility if the bricks are heated while connected is that the
plastic will "reset" to the slightly stretched connected position. What
I'm not sure of is why it seems sometimes like you need a jackhammer to
seperate a pair of bricks, but once you do, they become "loose". One
factor here of course is that wear may occur during the seperation
process. There could also be situations of a film of oil provides bond
which holds the bricks, but once is disturbed, doesn't work any more.
--
Frank Filz
-----------------------------
Work: mailto:ffilz@us.ibm.com (business only please)
Home: mailto:ffilz@mindspring.com
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