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After a couple of hours, my 12volt points motor gray box is opened.
I damaged the top cover slightly at its base along the flange at one corner.
The damage is a flex/cut through the flange caused by too strong of a cut into
the very small gap between the top box flange and the base.
My tool was an exacto-knife. This is a small, thin, triangular/pointed, knife
edge mounted in a pencil-like shaft for a secure hand-hold.
My technique was to wedge the knife edge into the gap between the flange of the
box top and the base. I then made numerous slices along the gap going about
the perimeter of the box. I would also wedge the knife edge into the gap,
settling the full length of the blade into the gap, then rock the blade so as
to gently open the gap. I proceded about the perimeter flexing the blade to
open the gap.
Finally, about at least two hours, the glue gave way, and I have open the box.
Why didn't the motor work?
One of the wires from the solenoid was "broken" at its solder connection to the
plug connector inside the box.
You all are right! It's going to take a steady hand to re-solder that wire to
the plug connector!
Any recommendations on the solder job?
It's too late to try to re-connect the wire. That's good. At least I won't be
tempted to do the job until tomorrow evening.
Thanks for all the help!
Patience, persistence, and a small knife edge were the keys to opening this box
for me.
later,
James Mathis
In lugnet.trains, Reinhard "Ben" Beneke writes:
> In lugnet.trains, James Mathis writes:
> > Ben,
> >
> > Thanks. Any assistance you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
>
>
> Dear James (and whoever might be interested in this also),
>
> I took the point motor from Ludo and opened it again (was hardly glued now).
> And I took a few pictures to put the best of them on my homepage here:
> http://www-public.tu-bs.de:8080/~rbeneke/lego/9v_12v/9v_12v.html
>
> Or direct picture link here:
> http://www-public.tu-bs.de:8080/~rbeneke/lego/9v_12v/pi463.jpg
>
> You will find a few words there, but I fear it's quite hard to open that point
> motors housing without causing greater damage to it.
>
> Kind Rega
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> You all are right! It's going to take a steady hand to re-solder that wire to
> the plug connector!
> Any recommendations on the solder job?
_small_ iron, using low melt solder, and lots of flux. I use a Antax 18W, 12V
iron (but, it is british, so you are not likely to be able to get one).
Otherwise, a Temp. Controlled iron, or run a small (25W) iron using a Variac
(Variable Transformer) to reduce the heat to the minimum temp that will melt
the solder. You can use 50-50 solder, just don't linger with the iron, go in
and out on the plastic pieces (I assume there is plastic right below a metal
contact plate)
Tin the work first, both the wire and the plate, then put a little more fresh
flux on the plate (use _Rosin_ flux, mine comes in a 4 Oz bottle). Then get a
dollop of fresh solder on your iron, and holding both pieces together, touch
the larger one until the solder melts on both it and the wire, then get the
iron off, and don't move the joint until it has set.
James
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Thanks, James!
I'll try to get this hooked up tonight.
Melting the plastic is a concern. We'll see if I'm worthy.
Thanks for the advice.
later,
James Mathis
In lugnet.trains, James Powell writes:
>
> > You all are right! It's going to take a steady hand to re-solder that wire • to
> > the plug connector!
> > Any recommendations on the solder job?
>
>
> _small_ iron, using low melt solder, and lots of flux. I use a Antax 18W, 12V
> iron (but, it is british, so you are not likely to be able to get one).
>
> Otherwise, a Temp. Controlled iron, or run a small (25W) iron using a Variac
> (Variable Transformer) to reduce the heat to the minimum temp that will melt
> the solder. You can use 50-50 solder, just don't linger with the iron, go in
> and out on the plastic pieces (I assume there is plastic right below a metal
> contact plate)
>
> Tin the work first, both the wire and the plate, then put a little more fresh
> flux on the plate (use _Rosin_ flux, mine comes in a 4 Oz bottle). Then get a
> dollop of fresh solder on your iron, and holding both pieces together, touch
> the larger one until the solder melts on both it and the wire, then get the
> iron off, and don't move the joint until it has set.
>
> James
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