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Hi,
I've asked some time before about an locking mechanism for the tilting
garage doors I was 'developing'. I've solved that partially, but I still
don't like the solution. Anybody could help?
The photos are bad (I had 2 minutes to do them and the poor thing
certainly didn't like the idea about focusing on shiny red bricks ;-) )
The model is still just a prototype.
Door size: 12 studs wide, 10 studs tall (2 plates above are a hole)
Hole size (clearance): 12 studs wide - 2 studs (liftarms), height cca 7
bricks (7 & 2/3 in the center, 7 & 1/3 and 7 under the plates 2x2 with hole)
Mechanism takes additional 2 studs on outer sides, so the minimal
distance between 2 doors are 4 studs.
The rubber belts help to open fully the doors, the bush distances on
liftarms and number & strengs of bands are subjects to experiments.
http://www.kostky.org/data/pics/gd_f_halfopen.jpg
Look on half opened doors, on the sides you can see Technic liftarms 1x7
http://www.kostky.org/data/pics/gd_b_opened.jpg
Look from the inside, doors fully opened. The rubber bands are relaxed
now. The center pin is 3L.
http://www.kostky.org/data/pics/gd_b_closed.jpg
Look from the inside, doors fully closed. Rubber bands are maximally
stretched. On the top right you can see the groove for driving the doors
movement. The technic pin is no longer on tile, so it partially 'locks'.
Technic Bush on the top is packed tigtly under the red brick, so it
firmly locks the doors, but the tension is too high for my tastes (but
it doesn't break the parts). Also the doors are closed too firmly right now.
So, anybody has a better idea for the locking mechanism?
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In lugnet.technic, Jindrich Kubec wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I've asked some time before about an locking mechanism for the tilting
> garage doors I was 'developing'. I've solved that partially, but I still
> don't like the solution. Anybody could help?
[snip]
> Look from the inside, doors fully closed. Rubber bands are maximally
> stretched. On the top right you can see the groove for driving the doors
> movement. The technic pin is no longer on tile, so it partially 'locks'.
> Technic Bush on the top is packed tigtly under the red brick, so it
> firmly locks the doors, but the tension is too high for my tastes (but
> it doesn't break the parts). Also the doors are closed too firmly right now.
>
> So, anybody has a better idea for the locking mechanism?
Do you need both rubber bands? Removing one would decrease the tension, but not
provide as much help opening the door. I think the basic mechanism is very neat.
ROSCO
ROSCO
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Ross Crawford wrote:
> Do you need both rubber bands? Removing one would decrease the tension, but not
> provide as much help opening the door. I think the basic mechanism is very neat.
Removing the rubber bands doesn't help. The bands are not the worst
problem, it's the size of the standard bush which creates the tension.
I've tried to replace it with standard pin, but the bands were
constantly falling off. I've got now an idea and replaced the 1x1 brick
above the locked bush with 1x1 round brick - it seems that the groove
around the round brick's base helps a bit. It also seems that the
'groove' which guides the top of the doors is one plate higher than
needed, I'll try to fix that in the next version. I'm also planning to
make the doors 2 studs higher, I want them to be doors in fire station's
garage for the new fire engine.
Thanks,
Jindroush
www.kostky.org - For Czech LEGO fans
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In lugnet.technic, Jindrich Kubec wrote:
> Ross Crawford wrote:
> > Do you need both rubber bands? Removing one would decrease the tension, but not
> > provide as much help opening the door. I think the basic mechanism is very neat.
>
> Removing the rubber bands doesn't help. The bands are not the worst
> problem, it's the size of the standard bush which creates the tension.
> I've tried to replace it with standard pin, but the bands were
> constantly falling off.
Have you tried the pin with towball?
http://guide.lugnet.com/partsref/search.cgi?q=50
> I've got now an idea and replaced the 1x1 brick
> above the locked bush with 1x1 round brick - it seems that the groove
> around the round brick's base helps a bit. It also seems that the
> 'groove' which guides the top of the doors is one plate higher than
> needed, I'll try to fix that in the next version. I'm also planning to
> make the doors 2 studs higher, I want them to be doors in fire station's
> garage for the new fire engine.
Let us know how it goes!
ROSCO
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In lugnet.technic, Ross Crawford wrote:
> In lugnet.technic, Jindrich Kubec wrote:
> > Ross Crawford wrote:
> > > Do you need both rubber bands? Removing one would decrease the tension, but not
> > > provide as much help opening the door. I think the basic mechanism is very neat.
> >
> > Removing the rubber bands doesn't help. The bands are not the worst
> > problem, it's the size of the standard bush which creates the tension.
> > I've tried to replace it with standard pin, but the bands were
> > constantly falling off.
>
> Have you tried the pin with towball?
> http://guide.lugnet.com/partsref/search.cgi?q=50
>
> > I've got now an idea and replaced the 1x1 brick
> > above the locked bush with 1x1 round brick - it seems that the groove
> > around the round brick's base helps a bit. It also seems that the
> > 'groove' which guides the top of the doors is one plate higher than
> > needed, I'll try to fix that in the next version. I'm also planning to
> > make the doors 2 studs higher, I want them to be doors in fire station's
> > garage for the new fire engine.
>
> Let us know how it goes!
>
> ROSCO
how about a groov at the opposite end aswell?
Why do things diffucult when you can make it easy?
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Rearrange the rubberbands so that they help keeping the door closed when it has
been closed a certain amount. To do this the hinge with the rubberband powered
lewer needs to pass 180° which might be a problem. But if you solve that the
rubberband will keep the door shut when shut and open when open.
If you can picture that :)
Regards,
/Tobbe
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