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In lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto, David Koudys writes:
<snip>
> Dave K
Arrrhgghhhhh!!! My FTP server isn't working and I'm stuck at work!!!!
Grrr!!!!!!
I have absolutely *huge* news and I can't upload pics!!!!
So when I get home tonite, I upload then...
http://sparky.i989.net/mmisc.htm
In the meantime, let me endeavour to try an explanation
!!!Standard disclaimer!!!
I am not responsible for *any* damage incurred to you, your person, persons
around you, the dog next door, or any of your LEGO elements. If you try
this, you do so at your own risk.
That said, here we go:
For clarity, let's use compass directions N, E, S, W.
First get a 2x6 brick or plate, doesn't matter and make sure it lies across
the E-W line.
West East
X X X X X X
X X X X X X
Then take a standard LEGO wire, connect one plate to east end of the 2x6,
with the wire out on the West side.
X X X X O O
===
X X X X O O
Connect the other end of the LEGO wire to the West side of the 2x6, making
sure the wire out is on the West side.
O O X X O O
=== ===
O O X X O O
You should see a 2x2 space between the two electrical plates, with the wire
from the east plate in there, but no worries about that.
There, that's the hard part
Get another wire--this will connect to battery box #1
Connect the battery box wire to the East electrical plate, but only on the
western studs, making sure that the wire out is facing North.
I
I
O O X BIB O
===
O O X B B O
Yet another wire enters the picture. This will connect to battery box #2
Connect the second battery box wire to the West electrical plate, but only
on the eastern studs, making sure that the wire out is facing North.
I I
I I
O bIb BIB O
===
O b b B B O
The last wire, are you ready for it? is the 18 volt out wire and goes right
on top, dead center, with the wire facing either east or west, matters not.
I I
I I
O bIP PIB O
=== ===
O b P P B O
When all is said and done, you should have yourself a nifty looking pyramid
of electrical plates and wires hanging out where they will.
9v in 9v in
I I
I I
O bIP PIB O
=== ======== 18 v out
O b P P B O
As you may have noticed, the 2x6 brick or plate is only for building on--you
don't really need it, but it helps to have a foundation upon which to build.
If you are like me, your battery box wire connector is usually connected so
that the wire goes straight out, as in directly away from the push buttons.
If this is the case, then the battery box switches on both boxes should be
turned on the same way--i.e. both switches pressed on the left side, or both
switches pressed on the right side. If you're worried, get yourself a
little voltmeter from Radioshack and check the voltages.
For non ascii pictures of this mess, see my website later tonite
Oh one more thing--I have no idea if someone else has done this--I was so
thrilled when I reduced the 18v converter to this--but if someone else has
already done this, nicely done!
Dave K.
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David Koudys wrote:
>
> In lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto, David Koudys writes:
<snip>
> As you may have noticed, the 2x6 brick or plate is only for building on--you
> don't really need it, but it helps to have a foundation upon which to build.
>
> If you are like me, your battery box wire connector is usually connected so
> that the wire goes straight out, as in directly away from the push buttons.
> If this is the case, then the battery box switches on both boxes should be
> turned on the same way--i.e. both switches pressed on the left side, or both
> switches pressed on the right side. If you're worried, get yourself a
> little voltmeter from Radioshack and check the voltages.
>
> For non ascii pictures of this mess, see my website later tonite
>
> Oh one more thing--I have no idea if someone else has done this--I was so
> thrilled when I reduced the 18v converter to this--but if someone else has
> already done this, nicely done!
>
> Dave K.
And, of course, I'd observe that if you build two of these, you can use
them both as inputs to a 36v system, etc.
Basically, if you have N battery boxes, and 3N+1 wires, you can go as
far as you like with this. Until the wires melt.
But hey! I just thought of something:
If you use the smaller 9v boxes you can do this:
Put them nose to nose. I've arbitrarily assigned + and -, but they will
be opposite because of the geometry:
_______________________________
|. . . . . . . .|. . . . . . . .|
| | |
+|H . b b b b b b|B B B B B B . H|-
| | |
-|H . b b b b b b|B B B B B B . H|+
| | |
|. . . . . . . .|. . . . . . . .|
---------------------------------
Add a single wire which loops back on itself like this. Note that on
the left-hand battery box it overlaps two non-conductive studs. If you
fail to do this, it shorts. The other end doesn't matter so much, so
long as you get the orientation right.
A
___I___________________________
|. .I. . . . . .|. . . . . . . .|
| I | |
+|H OIO b b b b b|B B O O B B . H|-
| | ============A
-|H O O b b b b b|B B O O B B . H|+
| | |
|. . . . . . . .|. . . . . . . .|
---------------------------------
Add the 18v output wire spanning the two boxes:
A 18v
___I___________I_______________
|. .I. . . . . .I. . . . . . . .|
| I I |
+|H OIO b b b b oIo B O O B B . H|-
| ============A
-|H O O b b b b o o B O O B B . H|+
| | |
|. . . . . . . .|. . . . . . . .|
---------------------------------
Or, alternatively... use a 2x4 electrical plate like this:
A
___I___________________________
|. .I. . . . .|o o|. . . . . . .|
| I | | |
+|H OIO b b b b|o o|B O O B B . H|-
| | | ============A
-|H O O b b b b|o o|B O O B B . H|+
| | | |
|. . . . . . .|o o|. . . . . . .|
---------------------------------
And then you can do exactly the same trick to merge 4 boxes... but you
can't do 8 as easily.
If you need more than 36v, of course, use Dave's method.
Wires required: For 2 boxes: 2, For 4 boxes: 3 + 2 plates. And you
can't accidentally turn the box on the wrong way.
CAVEAT: This was sketched on paper. Check your work. Or don't do this
at all. I *think* it ought to work, but I haven't built it....
Jeff E
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Uploaded
Have a boo here:
http://sparky.i989.net/mmisc.htm
18 volts! :)
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