| |
Hey Danny, thats interesting. You may be on to something.
I'm wondering, when a corrective tension is added (turning the opposing gear)
the center of the axle will twist.
Also, because the two drives are linked with z16's, when you turn one, the other
is just going to turn as well, negating the tension effect.
Some how a derivative of this set up would be the answer.
One other peice of info.
When you said, add two worms together, I thought you ment (until I saw your
render) add two worm gears to a single axle. To make them double long.
I learned that there are two types of worm gears. The older and newer style.
The older style has an axle grab the whole way through the gear. Meaning you can
see the axle accept on both sides. Front to back.
The newer style worm gears only have an axle grab part of the way through, and a
hollow end at one side.
The advantage of the older style is that you can put two on a single axle and
the splines mate up almost seamlessly. To make the worm gear double long.
The newer style worms have more of a blunt end on the splines and when you add
them two of them to an axle, they do not mate up as smoothly as the older ones.
Take a look and compare. See if you have both the older ones and new ones.
Then add them to a long axle and see how the ends mate up either smoothly or
with a small bump of hicup at the point where they meet on the axle.
The older ones have a finer/thinner end spline.
e
P.S. I don't know if Peeron has this difference listed.
Old and new style worm gears.
|
|
| |
On 22/12/05, Eric Sophie <mylegomaster@aol.com> wrote:
> Hey Danny, thats interesting. You may be on to something.
> I'm wondering, when a corrective tension is added (turning the opposing gear)
> the center of the axle will twist.
>
> Also, because the two drives are linked with z16's, when you turn one, the
> other
> is just going to turn as well, negating the tension effect.
>
> Some how a derivative of this set up would be the answer.
>
> One other peice of info.
>
> When you said, add two worms together, I thought you ment (until I saw your
> render) add two worm gears to a single axle. To make them double long.
>
> I learned that there are two types of worm gears. The older and newer style.
>
> The older style has an axle grab the whole way through the gear. Meaning you
> can
> see the axle accept on both sides. Front to back.
>
> The newer style worm gears only have an axle grab part of the way through, and
> a
> hollow end at one side.
>
> The advantage of the older style is that you can put two on a single axle and
> the splines mate up almost seamlessly. To make the worm gear double long.
>
> The newer style worms have more of a blunt end on the splines and when you add
> them two of them to an axle, they do not mate up as smoothly as the older
> ones.
>
> Take a look and compare. See if you have both the older ones and new ones.
> Then add them to a long axle and see how the ends mate up either smoothly or
> with a small bump of hicup at the point where they meet on the axle.
>
> The older ones have a finer/thinner end spline.
>
> e
>
> P.S. I don't know if Peeron has this difference listed.
>
> Old and new style worm gears.
Hi Eric,
I actually intended that the inherent backlash in the z16s was
exploited to turn them in a little after the positioning. You could
replace my z16s with two z24s and a z8, making one of the z24s a
clutch gear so you could turn them against each other. Either way -
you can do the positioning by just turning one of the gears - which
saves the hassle which bryce described.
Hmm - I didnt actually know about or spot this difference, but I
probably have some of each of those gears. My big worry about the new
worm gears is that they will be able to deal with much less torque of
stress than the older ones - which in this case could be a really
serious problem. I will take a good look at them now!
Danny
--
Danny Staple MBCS
OrionRobots
http://orionrobots.co.uk
(Full contact details available through website)
|
|
| |
In lugnet.build.mecha, danny staple orionrobots@gmail.com wrote:
| |
Hi Eric,
I actually intended that the inherent backlash in the z16s was
exploited to turn them in a little after the positioning. You could
replace my z16s with two z24s and a z8, making one of the z24s a
clutch gear so you could turn them against each other. Either way -
you can do the positioning by just turning one of the gears - which
saves the hassle which bryce described.
|
A very interesting trick, Danny. Here is my implementation of your no-backlash
transmission:
Of course there is a trade-off between backlash and friction, but your design
allows easy trimming.
Philo
|
|
| |
In lugnet.build.mecha, Eric Sophie wrote:
| |
SNIP
I learned that there are two types of worm gears. The older and newer style.
The older style has an axle grab the whole way through the gear. Meaning you
can see the axle accept on both sides. Front to back.
The newer style worm gears only have an axle grab part of the way through, and
a hollow end at one side.
The advantage of the older style is that you can put two on a single axle and
the splines mate up almost seamlessly. To make the worm gear double long.
The newer style worms have more of a blunt end on the splines and when you add
them two of them to an axle, they do not mate up as smoothly as the older
ones.
|
The new style worm gears have the advantage, that they can be put onto a
5.5- axle like shown in the following pics.
No additional parts are needed to fix the axle inside the gear!!
Thanks for pointing out, there are two types of worm gears. I never
realized there were. But when I knew there was this idea.
Marco
|
|
|
