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I’m soliciting solutions to a not-unfamiliar SNOT-construction quandry:
What’s the best way to attach brown bricks butt-end to butt-end (the ends
opposite the studs) securely, using only brown pieces that are readily available
(i.e. available in quanitity on Bricklink)?
The best solution I’ve come up with is to use these pieces periodically:
and then the two halves are secured together with some cross beams.
Any other ideas? The goal is to have a smooth surface on top, so the delicious
technic plate (e.g. part 4263) mated to two 2x2 L-shaped plates (part 2420)
won’t work as the technic plates have rounded edges. Technic pins leave little
gaps, and 1x1 bricks with 3 studs aren’t produced in brown yet (are they?).
Soooooo, let the brainstorming begin!
.s
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In lugnet.build, Shaun Sullivan wrote:
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I’m soliciting solutions to a not-unfamiliar SNOT-construction quandry:
What’s the best way to attach brown bricks butt-end to butt-end (the ends
opposite the studs) securely, using only brown pieces that are readily
available (i.e. available in quanitity on Bricklink)?
The best solution I’ve come up with is to use these pieces periodically:
and then the two halves are secured together with some cross beams.
Any other ideas? The goal is to have a smooth surface on top, so the
delicious technic plate (e.g. part 4263) mated to two 2x2 L-shaped plates
(part 2420) won’t work as the technic plates have rounded edges. Technic
pins leave little gaps, and 1x1 bricks with 3 studs aren’t produced in brown
yet (are they?). Soooooo, let the brainstorming begin!
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In how large or small a space are you hoping to accomplish this reversal?
I have an idea, but it might not fit in the scale you’re envisioning.
Dave!
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In lugnet.build, Shaun Sullivan wrote:
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I’m soliciting solutions to a not-unfamiliar SNOT-construction quandry:
What’s the best way to attach brown bricks butt-end to butt-end (the ends
opposite the studs) securely, using only brown pieces that are readily
available (i.e. available in quanitity on Bricklink)?
The best solution I’ve come up with is to use these pieces periodically:
and then the two halves are secured together with some cross beams.
Any other ideas? The goal is to have a smooth surface on top, so the
delicious technic plate (e.g. part 4263) mated to two 2x2 L-shaped plates
(part 2420) won’t work as the technic plates have rounded edges. Technic
pins leave little gaps, and 1x1 bricks with 3 studs aren’t produced in brown
yet (are they?). Soooooo, let the brainstorming begin!
.s
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WHOOSH... this lower half just flew over my head. I’m not very clear on exactly
what you want here. But I followed your question. Have you tried log (both 1 x
2 and 1 x 4) bricks with 2L technic rods shoved up and attached to each other
backwards with studs on both sides? Hope that helps.
Legoswami Samarth
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In lugnet.build, Shaun Sullivan wrote:
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I’m soliciting solutions to a not-unfamiliar SNOT-construction quandry:
What’s the best way to attach brown bricks butt-end to butt-end (the ends
opposite the studs) securely, using only brown pieces that are readily
available (i.e. available in quanitity on Bricklink)?
The best solution I’ve come up with is to use these pieces periodically:
and then the two halves are secured together with some cross beams.
Any other ideas? The goal is to have a smooth surface on top, so the
delicious technic plate (e.g. part 4263) mated to two 2x2 L-shaped plates
(part 2420) won’t work as the technic plates have rounded edges. Technic
pins leave little gaps, and 1x1 bricks with 3 studs aren’t produced in brown
yet (are they?). Soooooo, let the brainstorming begin!
.s
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What do you mean by ‘on top’? Are these butt-to-butt bricks supposed to form a
flat surface, or upright walls with the studs facing out left and right, or a
vertical wall with studs up and down? Can you handle sticking-out bits or studs
on one side or the other?
The simplest thing I can think of is a line of 1x4 technic plates, each with a
2x2 plate on top. Then, join them together with 2x2 plates pushed into the
holes upside down.
That way, you get a line of just one-plate thickness alternately two studs up
and two studs down. But, it’s two-studs deep, so if you can’t hide that it’s no
good.
Jason Railton
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In lugnet.build, Jason J. Railton wrote:
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In lugnet.build, Shaun Sullivan wrote:
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I’m soliciting solutions to a not-unfamiliar SNOT-construction quandry:
What’s the best way to attach brown bricks butt-end to butt-end (the ends
opposite the studs) securely, using only brown pieces that are readily
available (i.e. available in quanitity on Bricklink)?
The best solution I’ve come up with is to use these pieces periodically:
and then the two halves are secured together with some cross beams.
Any other ideas? The goal is to have a smooth surface on top, so the
delicious technic plate (e.g. part 4263) mated to two 2x2 L-shaped plates
(part 2420) won’t work as the technic plates have rounded edges. Technic
pins leave little gaps, and 1x1 bricks with 3 studs aren’t produced in brown
yet (are they?). Soooooo, let the brainstorming begin!
.s
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What do you mean by ‘on top’? Are these butt-to-butt bricks supposed to form
a flat surface, or upright walls with the studs facing out left and right, or
a vertical wall with studs up and down? Can you handle sticking-out bits or
studs on one side or the other?
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I’m curious about the “studs-out” orientation as well. Either up-down or
left-right (front-back). Each has their own particular spatial geometry, when
talking about Lego brick. It would be help if you did something like the
following description:
“Studs must be in the top-bottom arrangement. One example would be, 2 1x2 bricks
(6 plate thickness’ in total), bottom to bottom. Variations are acceptable, as
long as, 1) Total plate thickness does not vary (no movement, in or out - 6
plates stays 6 plates once assembled, and is maintained under slight
compression, and some effort is needed to disassemble this particular
sub-construct, in the same way that 2 1x2 bricks hold together in “normal”
construction. 2) total volume is 1x2x2 with the addition of the stud useable on
the bottom - i.e. no extra parts showing, or extra studs - 4 studs total.”
That kind of thing would be useful to brain storming.
C-ya,
Rich
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"Jason J Railton" <j.j.railton@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:IByEKH.12Ln@lugnet.com...
> The simplest thing I can think of is a line of 1x4 technic plates, each
> with a
> 2x2 plate on top. Then, join them together with 2x2 plates pushed into
> the
> holes upside down.
1x4 ***Technic*** plate?? What part # is that?? I have not come across a
piece described as such in the catalog.
Cheers ...
Geoffrey Hyde
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In lugnet.build, Geoffrey Hyde wrote:
>
> "Jason J Railton" <j.j.railton@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:IByEKH.12Ln@lugnet.com...
>
> > The simplest thing I can think of is a line of 1x4 technic plates, each
> > with a
> > 2x2 plate on top. Then, join them together with 2x2 plates pushed into
> > the
> > holes upside down.
>
> 1x4 ***Technic*** plate?? What part # is that?? I have not come across a
> piece described as such in the catalog.
There's a whole category devoted to them on Bricklink:
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?catID=140
ROSCO
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In lugnet.build, Shaun Sullivan wrote:
Prompted by this thread, I went back and did some further fiddling with my
bricks. It turns out that the skeleton arms fit neatly in next to the tubing at
the bottom of a brick- any brick, and the other half can fit into the end of
another brick. This way, you aren’t limited to the log bricks etc while using
butt-to-butt connections, but you can use ALL bricks. The trouble is, you’ll
need a SCARRRRY number of skeleton arms to pull it off on a larger scale.
Legoswami Samarth
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In lugnet.build, Jason J. Railton wrote:
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In lugnet.build, Shaun Sullivan wrote:
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I’m soliciting solutions to a not-unfamiliar SNOT-construction quandry:
What’s the best way to attach brown bricks butt-end to butt-end (the ends
opposite the studs) securely, using only brown pieces that are readily
available (i.e. available in quanitity on Bricklink)?
The best solution I’ve come up with is to use these pieces periodically:
and then the two halves are secured together with some cross beams.
Any other ideas? The goal is to have a smooth surface on top, so the
delicious technic plate (e.g. part 4263) mated to two 2x2 L-shaped plates
(part 2420) won’t work as the technic plates have rounded edges. Technic
pins leave little gaps, and 1x1 bricks with 3 studs aren’t produced in brown
yet (are they?). Soooooo, let the brainstorming begin!
.s
|
What do you mean by ‘on top’? Are these butt-to-butt bricks supposed to form
a flat surface, or upright walls with the studs facing out left and right, or
a vertical wall with studs up and down? Can you handle sticking-out bits or
studs on one side or the other?
The simplest thing I can think of is a line of 1x4 technic plates, each with
a 2x2 plate on top. Then, join them together with 2x2 plates pushed into the
holes upside down.
That way, you get a line of just one-plate thickness alternately two studs up
and two studs down. But, it’s two-studs deep, so if you can’t hide that it’s
no good.
Jason Railton
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My best idea for doing this flush in a 1-brick thick wall is to make a line of
headlight bricks, if you can get enough in brown. You alternate one upright,
one face down, one upright, one face down, all pushed together. If the last one
is upright you can use a 1x1 technic brick for neatness. Then you put a 1x1
plate on the downward face of the face-down ones. Now you have alternating
studs top and bottom.
There’s another neat trick from doing upright/face-up/upright/face-up headlight
bricks to get a regular 1/2-stud stepped base for building on.
Jason R
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