To LUGNET HomepageTo LUGNET News HomepageTo LUGNET Guide Homepage
 Help on Searching
 
Post new message to lugnet.trainsOpen lugnet.trains in your NNTP NewsreaderTo LUGNET News Traffic PageSign In (Members)
 Trains / 5901
5900  |  5902
Subject: 
Re: Question about Running 12v trains
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.trains, lugnet.boats
Date: 
Wed, 17 May 2000 15:51:15 GMT
Viewed: 
7759 times
  
In lugnet.trains, James Powell writes:
"Ben" wrote:

The Lego® motors (especially the older ones) are very robust! I drove my • first
4.5 v motor for weeks with 12V and nothing happened, and I even drove it in
the bathroom underwater

Ben, we have _got_ to hear the story of this!  I used to make paddle
"steamers", using Electical tape and Lego (the tape seals the Lego up quite
well...except across the bottom...) I don't have any pic's here, and I doubt
there are any at home...

4.5V motor mounted in the middle of 4 of the (10x24?) green plates with walls
made of 1x bricks, wrapped with electrical tape.  Bottom joints plated
top/bottom with longish pieces to reduce the number of leaks.  Float times up
to about 15 min, before draining due to waterlevel aproaching batterybox. • 4.5V
(3*C) battery box used.

At the age of maybe 5 to 7 I built a paddle steamer too, but I used the red
swimming hulls of set 311:
http://www.lugnet.com/pause/search/?query=311-1
And I built it with a gap in the middle for the paddles shaft and placed my 103
motor avove that. (I dared to use that, because I got the 107 motor that days
also, but I really had no knowledge about electricity and water, just the
dump feeling that water would be wrong...)
But with the motor place high above the waterline (and rubber band transmission
to the paddle wheel, the ship alway tends to tilt.

So I changed the desingn and placed the heavy motor underneath the hull and
under the waterline. Still with rubber band as power transmission to the
paddlewheel whichs center has to lie just above the waterline.

And that ship worked (and swam) very good and stable! Years later I gave a drop
of oil into the motor and it works fine till today....

Regards,

Ben


P.s.: I damaged some bricks with strong soap water once: I played "rescue
divers" with the armless pre minifigs in that water (maybe quite hot with
nearly 40 °C) and they dived through the "foggy" water, to do ther jobs. And
all the bricks I used lost their capability to hold against each other. If I
just blow agaist those pre minifigs today, they break in parts....
I'm not sure if the heat or the soap damaged the ABS material.
[getting too off-topic here....]



Message has 1 Reply:
  Re: Question about Running 12v trains
 
(...) One possible explanation for this (since I have washed many bricks and noticed this sometimes, but not most of the time): Dirty bricks will have a layer of grit on them which could throw off the tolerances, and will increase wear, especially (...) (25 years ago, 17-May-00, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.boats, lugnet.general)

Message is in Reply To:
  Re: Question about Running 12v trains
 
(...) Ben, we have _got_ to hear the story of this! I used to make paddle "steamers", using Electical tape and Lego (the tape seals the Lego up quite well...except across the bottom...) I don't have any pic's here, and I doubt there are any at (...) (25 years ago, 16-May-00, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.boats)

7 Messages in This Thread:


Entire Thread on One Page:
Nested:  All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:  All | Brief | Compact

This Message and its Replies on One Page:
Nested:  All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:  All | Brief | Compact
    

Custom Search

©2005 LUGNET. All rights reserved. - hosted by steinbruch.info GbR