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 | | Re: Bodville update
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| The Bodville website is on a new server now. (URL) (18 years ago, 12-Jan-08, to lugnet.trains)
| | | | | Re: LEGO 7996 and 9V
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| (...) Running wires between cars is probably not as tough as getting the lead from the motor to the car or engine. Although LEGO made a train headlamp kit, the wire coming off the motor connector tended to get in the way, especially on turns. We (...) (18 years ago, 11-Jan-08, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
| | | | | Re: LEGO 7996 and 9V
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| (...) Myself and others have used copper foil (2 URLs) I converted a 7996 just before Christmas, and installed it in my elevated train layout. So far it's run flawlessly for different trains for over 20 hours of run time. I used pre-tinned (...) (18 years ago, 10-Jan-08, to lugnet.trains)
| | | | | Re: LEGO 7996 and 9V
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| (...) Ted: That's a great idea! Do you any pictures of your setup and how you routed the wire between the motors? This sounds like something I would love to try. Thanks for the tip. -Dave (18 years ago, 10-Jan-08, to lugnet.trains)
| | | | | Re: LEGO 7996 and 9V
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| Jeffrey- Of course, there's the "easy" way: Simply use two motors, linked by a wire, and separated by enough distance to cover the non-conductive gap caused by using a 7996. We have tried this and it works fine (and also improves operation (...) (18 years ago, 10-Jan-08, to lugnet.trains)
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