 | | Re: LEGO 7996 and 9V —Ted Michon
| | | | Jeffrey- Of course, there's the "easy" way: Simply use two motors, linked by a wire, and separated by enough distance to cover the non-conductive gap caused by using a 7996. We have tried this and it works fine (and also improves operation (...) (17 years ago, 10-Jan-08, to lugnet.trains)
| | | | | | | | | | Re: LEGO 7996 and 9V —Dave Sterling
| | | | | (...) Ted: That's a great idea! Do you any pictures of your setup and how you routed the wire between the motors? This sounds like something I would love to try. Thanks for the tip. -Dave (17 years ago, 10-Jan-08, to lugnet.trains)
| | | | | | | | | | | | Re: LEGO 7996 and 9V —Ted Michon
| | | | | (...) Running wires between cars is probably not as tough as getting the lead from the motor to the car or engine. Although LEGO made a train headlamp kit, the wire coming off the motor connector tended to get in the way, especially on turns. We (...) (17 years ago, 11-Jan-08, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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