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Hi All,
The picture below shows my attempt to connect RC-train rails and 1970s blue
rails. The RC train can easily traverse the gap in the rails when it is going
straight (at least one straight segment on each side of the gap). When it is
going into or coming out of a curve, it sometimes derails.
Using these connections I was able to run the RC Freight Train, with a few old
blue-rail cars, on the following track with out it derailing too often...
My experience so far is that the RC train derails on the blue rails mostly when
they dont line up perfectly (its pretty easy to line them up imperfectly,
since the connections between them are not nearly as rigid as on newer rails).
But when the rails line up well, the train runs well.
If anybody has better ideas for linking blue rails to the RC rails, Ill be
happy to see them.
| | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Sivan Toledo wrote:
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If anybody has better ideas for linking blue rails to the RC rails, Ill be
happy to see them.
|
Looks pretty good. Have you tried using a jumper plate? I dont know exactly
how far apart the blue and bley rails are, but it looks to be almost a
half-stud. Could you put a jumper plate on the 2x8s holding the blue rails on,
a 1x1 plate on the bley rail, and a 1x3 (or 1x4) to hold them together? Or is
the gap just a little smaller than a half stud width?
--Tony
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Anthony Sava wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Sivan Toledo wrote:
|
If anybody has better ideas for linking blue rails to the RC rails, Ill be
happy to see them.
|
Looks pretty good. Have you tried using a jumper plate? I dont know
exactly how far apart the blue and bley rails are, but it looks to be almost
a half-stud. Could you put a jumper plate on the 2x8s holding the blue rails
on, a 1x1 plate on the bley rail, and a 1x3 (or 1x4) to hold them together?
Or is the gap just a little smaller than a half stud width?
--Tony
|
Works perfectly! The train runs very smoothly over this link. On one side there
is still an indentation in the new gray rail, but on the other the gray and blue
rails line up perfectly. Here is the construction:
However, when since the 1x3 plates are only mounted on 4 1x1s, they can rotate
a bit and misalign the rails. A 1x8 plate or tile connected to more studs on the
new rail solves the problem.
Thanks a lot, Sivan
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Sivan Toledo wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Anthony Sava wrote:
|
In lugnet.trains, Sivan Toledo wrote:
|
If anybody has better ideas for linking blue rails to the RC rails, Ill be
happy to see them.
|
Looks pretty good. Have you tried using a jumper plate? I dont know
exactly how far apart the blue and bley rails are, but it looks to be almost
a half-stud. Could you put a jumper plate on the 2x8s holding the blue
rails on, a 1x1 plate on the bley rail, and a 1x3 (or 1x4) to hold them
together? Or is the gap just a little smaller than a half stud width?
--Tony
|
Works perfectly! The train runs very smoothly over this link. On one side
there is still an indentation in the new gray rail, but on the other the gray
and blue rails line up perfectly. Here is the construction:
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SNIPED
|
However, when since the 1x3 plates are only mounted on 4 1x1s, they can
rotate a bit and misalign the rails. A 1x8 plate or tile connected to more
studs on the new rail solves the problem.
Thanks a lot, Sivan
|
It looks like 2 pair of jumper plates on the RC track and a pair of 1x2 plates
on the old track would be even more rigid.
Mat Clayson
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Sivan Toledo wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Anthony Sava wrote:
|
In lugnet.trains, Sivan Toledo wrote:
|
If anybody has better ideas for linking blue rails to the RC rails, Ill be
happy to see them.
|
Looks pretty good. Have you tried using a jumper plate? I dont know
exactly how far apart the blue and bley rails are, but it looks to be almost
a half-stud. Could you put a jumper plate on the 2x8s holding the blue
rails on, a 1x1 plate on the bley rail, and a 1x3 (or 1x4) to hold them
together? Or is the gap just a little smaller than a half stud width?
--Tony
|
Works perfectly! The train runs very smoothly over this link. On one side
there is still an indentation in the new gray rail, but on the other the gray
and blue rails line up perfectly. Here is the construction:
However, when since the 1x3 plates are only mounted on 4 1x1s, they can
rotate a bit and misalign the rails. A 1x8 plate or tile connected to more
studs on the new rail solves the problem.
Thanks a lot, Sivan
|
No problem, glad it worked. A smaller option to help secure the rails would be
to move the jumper plate to the bley rails, and replace the 1x1 plate with a
1x2, attaching it to the blue rails. You should be able to use a 1x4 plate or
tile to connect the rails together, and it should prevent the rails from
slipping.
--Tony
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Sivan Toledo wrote:
|
Hi All,
The picture below shows my attempt to connect RC-train rails and 1970s blue
rails. The RC train can easily traverse the gap in the rails when it is going
straight (at least one straight segment on each side of the gap). When it is
going into or coming out of a curve, it sometimes derails.
|
I am glad to see that someone has perfected the idea of using the old 12 volt
track with the new R/C trains. I asked some of the train expert early on and
was told it would not work. I am glad that I held onto the old 12V gray track
and some of the blue.
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Clifton D. Chambers wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Sivan Toledo wrote:
|
Hi All,
The picture below shows my attempt to connect RC-train rails and 1970s blue
rails. The RC train can easily traverse the gap in the rails when it is
going straight (at least one straight segment on each side of the gap). When
it is going into or coming out of a curve, it sometimes derails.
|
I am glad to see that someone has perfected the idea of using the old 12 volt
track with the new R/C trains. I asked some of the train expert early on and
was told it would not work. I am glad that I held onto the old 12V gray
track and some of the blue.
|
Id like to see where you asked that, I have 4 pieces to convert from 4.5V to 9V
track. (the old gray track being easy to use for non powered yards...works like
a charm, and fits at 8 wide between tracks...). Ive had them at least 8 years
now, since I had them in use here when I was in my apartment.
James Powell
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, James Powell wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Clifton D. Chambers wrote:
|
In lugnet.trains, Sivan Toledo wrote:
|
Hi All,
The picture below shows my attempt to connect RC-train rails and 1970s
blue rails. The RC train can easily traverse the gap in the rails when it
is going straight (at least one straight segment on each side of the gap).
When it is going into or coming out of a curve, it sometimes derails.
|
I am glad to see that someone has perfected the idea of using the old 12
volt track with the new R/C trains. I asked some of the train expert early
on and was told it would not work. I am glad that I held onto the old 12V
gray track and some of the blue.
|
Id like to see where you asked that, I have 4 pieces to convert from 4.5V to
9V track. (the old gray track being easy to use for non powered
yards...works like a charm, and fits at 8 wide between tracks...). Ive had
them at least 8 years now, since I had them in use here when I was in my
apartment.
|
Hi
Havent been here for a long time...
I used this in 2000 or 2001 here:
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=3927 Especially see:
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=39222
I have some broken pieces i wanted to convert 2 a mixed track - the idea was to
have a layout with 2 contries connected by a railwaybridge, with 9V tracks
with 12V inlets - reflecting different systems in the world (e.g. the border at
Lithuania and Poland, where 1435 and 1524 mm tracks meet or where catenary
voltages changes). The idea is to have a 9V track, cut a 12V rail in half and
mix them up, so the lenght is correct. Then the 12V inlets can be added. By that
both trains can operate in each others area as long as track goes.
I newer got the time to finish it (nor the money to have the layout somewhere)
BR
Sonnich
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Sonnich Jensen wrote:
> Hi
>
> Havent been here for a long time...
>
> I used this in 2000 or 2001 here:
> http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=3927
Especially this: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=39222
I forgot this one: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=39233
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