Subject:
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Re: Need to figure out how to get this motor unit attached.
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.technic
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Date:
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Wed, 19 Apr 2006 01:33:42 GMT
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Viewed:
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7034 times
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In lugnet.technic, Geoffrey Hyde wrote:
> http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=171364
>
> I'm trying to figure out how to attach the new motor assembly and it's
> one-way drive train shown in pics 0-4 in this folder to the hopper assembly,
> at the point where the old assembly engaged the hopper itself, in pic 10 in
> the brickshelf folder above. Both the new and old motor assemblies have
> light bluish grey 13L liftarms in them, and it is a bit of a problem for me
> to work out how to make the connection solid and go around a 90 degree bend
> in the drive train for this MOC of mine.
>
> Can anyone suggest ways of doing this in studless without too much fiddling
> around with a lot of 90 degree angles?
>
> Studless seems to be one-dimensional building, IE you can build quite easily
> if all the holes in your beams are aligned the same way, but once you have
> to go around a 90 degree bend to match up holes in another direction, it
> gets a lot more difficult.
>
> Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Cheers ...
>
> Geoffrey Hyde
Hi Geoffrey,
I think the easiest way to turn gearing through use of the worm gear, however as
others will point out a worm gear is not very efficient gearing down mechanism,
also if this is run for several hours at a time, the meshed gears will grind.
Wear is even worse if the worm is the final gearing, taking the full torque of
the application. So use a worm earlier rather than later in a gear train.
The most effective gearing down is via double bevel gears as the gear teeth are
wider (more contact and strength, less pressure).
To turn bevel gears 90 degrees you'll need a rigid framework to place the gears
into. Lego has done this by using a series of 6536/32184 (see below) with axles
joining the lot. The key here is rigid. Any flex where the two gears meet will
result in slippage, so make use of the various 90 degree liftarms. Also the
more teeth in contact the better the transfer of power. Use as big a gear as
possible. The 12 tooth if there is not space, 20 tooth is better and the 36
tooth best.
Just as a side question, does anyone know how efficient the four-lobed pseudo
gear is compared to bevels and worms?
If you are still going with the worm gearing, try replacing the 2 12-teeth
bevels gears that form your 90deg turn with a 24-tooth & worm combo. If you are
looking for strength you could put this inside the gearbox element, or make a
pretty good gearbox with the triangles (2905 below) and two 6536 supporting the
worm shaft with the 24t gear in the middle hole.
Other options include mounting the motor via 6536/32184 (below)
Any way you go I'd make the turn before any gearing down.
Another question that arises is when the slip-gear should be placed in a gearing
down train. I'd assume that the earlier you place it, more force is required
(at the output) to stall the train. Is this right gurus? (Rosco et al?)
All of these and more is possible, I'm afraid that the only way is through a bit
of trial-and-error, but that is the "fun" bit of lego for me. :)
Usefull bits:
6588<<http://media.peeron.com/ldraw/images/0/6588.png>>
2905<<http://media.peeron.com/ldraw/images/0/2905.png>>
6536<<http://media.peeron.com/ldraw/images/0/6536.png>>
32184<<http://media.peeron.com/ldraw/images/0/32184.png>>
Hope this helps,
Chris.
Think it, Built it, Share it.
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Message is in Reply To:
 | | Need to figure out how to get this motor unit attached.
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| (URL) trying to figure out how to attach the new motor assembly and it's one-way drive train shown in pics 0-4 in this folder to the hopper assembly, at the point where the old assembly engaged the hopper itself, in pic 10 in the brickshelf folder (...) (19 years ago, 14-Apr-06, to lugnet.technic)
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