Subject:
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RE: Working with Legos
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.robotics.handyboard
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Date:
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Mon, 1 Mar 1999 15:58:34 GMT
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Original-From:
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brett anthony <anthonyb@ecs.SPAMCAKEcsus.edu>
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Viewed:
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1039 times
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Servo Tape: Available at R/C suppliers, this is sheet rubber with very
strong stickum on both sides. The only problem is that it will creep, so if
the part will be under stress you should augment servo tape with either
Ty-Raps or a fillet of silicone glue around the joint. Aquarium sealer
works well for the fillet. The silicone glue can be peeled off, and the
servo tape removed by gentle prying. Be patient. You can speed up the
process of removing servo tape with a squirt of WD-40. Clean up with
rubbing alcohol (isopropanol) or Dawn. The Lego plastic will not be
damaged.
Sticky Back Velcro: Useful for sensors and other low-stress mounting
situations where the part may have to be re-positioned. Remove with WD-40
as above.
Most Lego parts are made of ABS, so when you are shopping adhesives read the
fine print. Some adhesives are not appropriate for ABS because over time
they will cause the plastic to craze and/or lose it's plasticisers, even
though it seems to work at first. For permanant bonds, Tenax X-7 works
well, but be careful, use sparingly. C-A glues are OK if formulated for
plastic (Zap, etc.) but also buy the surface prep/catalyst they sell for
plastic models or you may be disappointed. Probably the best permanant glue
is JB Weld, aka "Ozark Wonder Glue" ;), you can easily bond round things
(motors) to flat things (Lego plates) with this stuff and the parts become
as one. It is well known that after the giant asteroid hits the only things
left will be cockroaches, AOL disks, and anything assembled with JB Weld.
Buy it at the auto parts store.
Brett Anthony
Equipment Technician
College of Engineering and Computer Science
California State University, Sacramento
Postal Mail: Brett Anthony
CSUS, E&CS
6000 J St.
Sacramento, CA 95819-6023
email: anthonyb@ecs.csus.edu
phone: (916)278-6253
fax: (916)278-5949
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