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Subject: 
Cool robot platform and a question...
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.robotics.handyboard
Date: 
Tue, 3 Nov 1998 05:56:45 GMT
Original-From: 
Clem Taylor <ctaylor@srtc.com(NoSpam)>
Viewed: 
2030 times
  
Thanks to the help of Todd Graham (thanks Todd), I've found a really cool,
low cost, RC robot platform.  It's the same platform used by USC's 1997
RoboCup entry, the Nikko Hercules!  It has 4 hard plastic drive wheels,
dual drive motors, differential steering and the ability to raise and
lower the chassis (changing the angle the wheels have to the ground, which
changes the turning radius and the amount of wheel that has contact with
the ground).

I was planning on building my own H-bridge for it, and was surprised to
find that it already has a dual H-bridge and a fairly decent run time.
So, rather then build or purchase a new H-bridge I would like to hack
apart the one that comes with the car.

Being a software weenie, I don't have any experience reverse engineering a
circuit.  I started probing around for continuity to try and figure out
what's what and I didn't get very far.  When I tried to check voltages
with the power applied, when I touched the circuit (or even got the probe
near the circuit) the car would start twitching wildly, which makes
debugging difficult.

I was wondering if anyone had any luck interfacing to this or another
Nikko car with differential steering.  I'd hope that the circuits are
similar...

TR10    TR12      TR 13
                  TR 11

                  TR6
TR7     TR5       TR4

The controller board has 8 power transistors, 10 & 12, 13 & 11, 6 & 3, and
7 & 5 are connected to common heat sinks, and the heat sinks for 11-13 and
5-7 are electrically common.

The circuit has a 22 pin DIP chip that I would guess interfaces with the
radio and controls the bridge.  If the DIP is parsing the radio signal and
generating control signals for the H-bridge, I'd guess that I will have to
remove it from the circuit and tap directly into the transistors.  Also,
the car is a bit fast, so I'd like to be able to PWM the motors.  Any
ideas?  Would it be easier to just start from scratch?

                  Many thanks,
                  Clem



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