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Hi Brian, (...) I was surprised too. I suspect a relatively high internal resistance of the windings, rather than mechanical friction, as the source of losses. No, (shame on me!) I didn't checked yet with an ohmmeter. (...) This is clearly outside (...) (13 years ago, 13-Jan-11, to lugnet.robotics, lugnet.org.us.smart)
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(...) I've been operating outside my personal SOA for years now :) (...) It's actually not a motor - it's a small electric hot water heater element. When plugged in it produces 1300W, but if I want less than that I need to figure out some way to (...) (13 years ago, 13-Jan-11, to lugnet.robotics, lugnet.org.us.smart)
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(...) Good thing, the load is not inductive. (...) OK, with a 1 second cycle time, and pure on/off, it is simpler. All you need is a solid state relay. (...) Looks like some people do: (URL) and worse, most of these dimmers work by dissipating and (...) (13 years ago, 13-Jan-11, to lugnet.robotics, lugnet.org.us.smart)
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(...) Interesting thread, even if a bit off topic of LEGO motors. I'm not an expert on power circuits, but a google search turned up this web site with a number of interesting power supply circuits (there is a search option). (URL) Putz (URL) (13 years ago, 13-Jan-11, to lugnet.robotics, lugnet.org.us.smart)
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(...) No, purely resistive. Although it does have a "boot up" time, I think it's just due to heating up the element. I'm not completely sure if the element will respond better to a "dimmer" type set-up (running it at less than normal voltage) or a (...) (13 years ago, 15-Jan-11, to lugnet.robotics, lugnet.org.us.smart)
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(...) I have come across some industrial heater controls. To get the heaters at part power (to run them in a closed-loop temperature control), a method of burst firing is used. The circuit measures the zero crossings of the AC supply and turns the (...) (13 years ago, 25-Feb-11, to lugnet.robotics)
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