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Ahoy,
It has long been discussed, and claimed
once – but no evidence has been provided.
But I have done it!
I’ve cut six centre sections, and a single bow section, as that is what’s needed
for the rebuild of my Misérable. No widened stern section(1) is required, so I haven’t attempted
that yet.
The cutting is simple - I used a hacksaw, with the pieces attached to bricks
held fast in a vise. I cut by eye, as the accuracy of the cut is not
critical(2). After I cut one centre section, I realised it was easier to cut at
a point that isn’t the midline of the piece, as there’s a reinforcing rib
moulded there, and it’s just extra plastic to cut through.
Cutting the pieces doesn’t particularly affect the functioning of the pieces,
they can just be joined back together (and the joins covered) with plates. In
the widened configuration, the joins are spanned by plates, and the extra bow
width filled with inverted slopes either side of the keel.
Here’re some pics
While I still maintain my view that six
hull sections isn’t necessarily canoelike, what spurred me to do this cutting
was the desire for more deck space. When the beam is extended by up to 8 studs
(on top of the four extra studs gained from a double row of inverted slopes),
there’s a lot more room on board! Also, the hull taper on the new Misérable,
acheived through variably widened hull sections, does look nice(3).
Cheers
Richie Dulin
(1) The design of the stern sections present several difficulties for the
prospective hull bisector, with the moulded keel of the stern section a
difficult obstacle indeed. I have some ideas on how to do it, but that’ll have
to wait until (or if) I build a ship of the line.
(2) The edges of the cuts are not generally visible in completed models. Nor is
it necessary (in my design, anyway) to butt them against other pieces.
(3) The new Misérable is still under construction. The hull’s more-or-less
complete to the scuppers, but there’s a lot of internal work still to go. Plus
the deck. Plus the rig. Plus a new suit of sails. Completion is still weeks
away.
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In lugnet.parts.mod, Richie Dulin wrote:
| |
Ahoy,
It has long been discussed, and claimed once – but no evidence has been provided.
But I have done it!
I’ve cut six centre sections, and a single bow section, as that is what’s
needed for the rebuild of my Misérable. No widened stern section(1) is required, so I haven’t attempted
that yet.
The cutting is simple - I used a hacksaw, with the pieces attached to bricks
held fast in a vise. I cut by eye, as the accuracy of the cut is not
critical(2). After I cut one centre section, I realised it was easier to cut
at a point that isn’t the midline of the piece, as there’s a reinforcing
rib moulded there, and it’s just extra plastic to cut through.
Cutting the pieces doesn’t particularly affect the functioning of the pieces,
they can just be joined back together (and the joins covered) with plates. In
the widened configuration, the joins are spanned by plates, and the extra bow
width filled with inverted slopes either side of the keel.
Here’re some pics
While I still maintain my view that
six hull sections isn’t necessarily canoelike, what spurred me to do this
cutting was the desire for more deck space. When the beam is extended by up
to 8 studs (on top of the four extra studs gained from a double row of
inverted slopes), there’s a lot more room on board! Also, the hull taper on
the new Misérable, acheived through variably widened hull sections, does
look nice(3).
Cheers
Richie Dulin
(1) The design of the stern sections present several difficulties for the
prospective hull bisector, with the moulded keel of the stern section a
difficult obstacle indeed. I have some ideas on how to do it, but that’ll
have to wait until (or if) I build a ship of the line.
(2) The edges of the cuts are not generally visible in completed models. Nor
is it necessary (in my design, anyway) to butt them against other pieces.
(3) The new Misérable is still under construction. The hull’s more-or-less
complete to the scuppers, but there’s a lot of internal work still to go.
Plus the deck. Plus the rig. Plus a new suit of sails. Completion is still
weeks away.
|
Richie,
First off, get yourself a razor saw, this will give you cleaner cuts that remove
less material. I’d recomend cutting the sections down the middle , and not
offset. Make you initial cut across the top. Then flip it over, anduse side
cutters to cut the ends of the molded rib. If the cut is centered over the rib,
you should be able to pull it free now. You can remove any extra material around
the cuts with a hobby knife. And even glue some tile or shaved plates to the
underside if you want it really secure.
As for the stern, seperate the top from the bottom before cutting. I’d split the
top down the middle, and remove the keel section as 2 stud wide piece:
 Use a
hobby knife to make the cross cut. After making the long cuts with a saw, score
the plastic with the knife and the plastic should breack off aling the line.
Having split hull sections is what LEGO should have had from the begining. I
have ~20 ships in my collection, mostly BSB. But 2 are COKO brand clones. The
COKO ships came with split hull sections that were otherwise nearly identical to
LEGO’s.
Mat
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In lugnet.pirates, Mathew Clayson wrote:
| |
In lugnet.parts.mod, Richie Dulin wrote:
| |
Ahoy,
It has long been discussed, and claimed once – but no evidence has been provided.
But I have done it!
I’ve cut six centre sections, and a single bow section, as that is what’s
needed for the rebuild of my
Misérable. No widened
stern section(1) is required, so I haven’t attempted that yet.
The cutting is simple - I used a hacksaw, with the pieces attached to bricks
held fast in a vise. I cut by eye, as the accuracy of the cut is not
critical(2). After I cut one centre section, I realised it was easier to cut
at a point that isn’t the midline of the piece, as there’s a reinforcing
rib moulded there, and it’s just extra plastic to cut through.
Cutting the pieces doesn’t particularly affect the functioning of the
pieces, they can just be joined back together (and the joins covered) with
plates. In the widened configuration, the joins are spanned by plates, and
the extra bow width filled with inverted slopes either side of the keel.
Here’re some pics
While I still maintain my view that
six hull sections isn’t necessarily canoelike, what spurred me to do this
cutting was the desire for more deck space. When the beam is extended by up
to 8 studs (on top of the four extra studs gained from a double row of
inverted slopes), there’s a lot more room on board! Also, the hull taper on
the new Misérable, acheived through variably widened hull sections, does
look nice(3).
Cheers
Richie Dulin
(1) The design of the stern sections present several difficulties for the
prospective hull bisector, with the moulded keel of the stern section a
difficult obstacle indeed. I have some ideas on how to do it, but that’ll
have to wait until (or if) I build a ship of the line.
(2) The edges of the cuts are not generally visible in completed models. Nor
is it necessary (in my design, anyway) to butt them against other pieces.
(3) The new Misérable is still under construction. The hull’s more-or-less
complete to the scuppers, but there’s a lot of internal work still to go.
Plus the deck. Plus the rig. Plus a new suit of sails. Completion is still
weeks away.
|
Richie,
First off, get yourself a razor saw, this will give you cleaner cuts that
remove less material. I’d recomend cutting the sections down the middle , and
not offset. Make you initial cut across the top. Then flip it over, anduse
side cutters to cut the ends of the molded rib. If the cut is centered over
the rib, you should be able to pull it free now. You can remove any extra
material around the cuts with a hobby knife. And even glue some tile or
shaved plates to the underside if you want it really secure.
As for the stern, seperate the top from the bottom before cutting. I’d split
the top down the middle, and remove the keel section as 2 stud wide piece:
Use a
hobby knife to make the cross cut. After making the long cuts with a saw,
score the plastic with the knife and the plastic should breack off aling the
line.
Having split hull sections is what LEGO should have had from the begining. I
have ~20 ships in my collection, mostly BSB. But 2 are COKO brand clones. The
COKO ships came with split hull sections that were otherwise nearly identical
to LEGO’s.
Mat
|
out of curiosity, where did you find your COKO ships? Some of the models look
very interesting and would not mind getting my hand on one. I don’t know if it
is the same company or another asian company, but Oxford Korea also makes
really neat looking ships, again it is hard to find one for sale, i know they
also split their hulls. and they have black large hulls! :) wish i could find
one!
I have cut one of the small hulls before to attempt to make a larger hulled
ship, however my hand wasnt as strait as i would have liked and it didnt come
out too well :(
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In lugnet.parts.mod, Dan Vogel wrote:
| |
In lugnet.pirates, Mathew Clayson wrote:
|
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| |
First off, get yourself a razor saw, this will give you cleaner cuts that
remove less material. I’d recomend cutting the sections down the middle ,
and not offset. Make you initial cut across the top. Then flip it over,
anduse side cutters to cut the ends of the molded rib. If the cut is
centered over the rib, you should be able to pull it free now. You can
remove any extra material around the cuts with a hobby knife. And even glue
some tile or shaved plates to the underside if you want it really secure.
As for the stern, seperate the top from the bottom before cutting. I’d split
the top down the middle, and remove the keel section as 2 stud wide piece:
http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/impact1/HackandSlash/2559c01a.jpg Use
a hobby knife to make the cross cut. After making the long cuts with a saw,
score the plastic with the knife and the plastic should breack off aling the
line.
Having split hull sections is what LEGO should have had from the begining. I
have ~20 ships in my collection, mostly BSB. But 2 are COKO brand clones.
The COKO ships came with split hull sections that were otherwise nearly
identical to LEGO’s.
Mat
|
out of curiosity, where did you find your COKO ships? Some of the models look
very interesting and would not mind getting my hand on one. I don’t know if
it is the same company or another asian company, but Oxford Korea also makes
really neat looking ships, again it is hard to find one for sale, i know they
also split their hulls. and they have black large hulls! :) wish i could find
one!
|
I bought my COKO ships at TRU in the SF Bay Area. I’ve been collecting Pirates
scince day one, and these showed up about a year or so after the BSB. There
wern’t alot of other LEGO ships avalible at the time, and the price was right.
So I bought one, and then another a couple years later when they were on a
clearance isle. But it’s been 10 years scince I’ve seen one for sale. I ended
up throwing some of the kit parts in my “bucket of shame”, mostly the aweful
minifigs and a few warped plates. But the rest is OK.
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I have cut one of the small hulls before to attempt to make a larger hulled
ship, however my hand wasnt as strait as i would have liked and it didnt come
eout too well :(
|
I use old/clone block to line up my cuts. And a hobby knife and razor saw to
make the cuts. This really helps.
Mat
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