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Hi John
Thanks for your kind words.
In lugnet.parts.custom, John Barnes wrote:
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In lugnet.build.minifigs, Norbert Black wrote:
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A primer on making custom elements for use with Lego(tm) pieces.
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Brilliant!
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Thanks. :) What you read is iteration 8 (or something of that order) of the
document - I hoped people would find it clear, and encouraging.
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Originating entirely new sculpted parts and then working them to a “Lego
like” finish is great. And important as far as I’m concerned.
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Yeah, me too. I always want to keep things in the range of “Lego could do
this” (even though most of my customs would be insanely expensive to produce,
with all the decorated surfaces involved...).
I find that getting that “Lego” feel can often be the hardest and most subtle
part of a customizing project.
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If people
really need to have a good knowledge of what Lego elements are or were
actually available to be able to detect your work, then you’ve done it well
:)
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Well, I’ve had a few double takes and “when did they produce that?!?” comments
over the years, so I’m getting there. ;)
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I love your idea of making reinforced internal structure. Curiously enough,
that substance has an official name - Paxolin, which is an SRBP or synthetic
resin bonded paper.
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Oh, so that’s what Paxolin is. Huh. I’ve known the name for years, what with
dabbling in British-style model railways. Custom-built track with paxolin ties
used to be quite common in that field.
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I have also discovered that “super glue” will soak into
paper and make a tough but thin structural element.
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Interesting... I’ve always had rotten luck with superglue - won’t stick, and
doesn’t keep, at least for me. Still, whatever folks can get to work, right?
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ABS is slightly soluble
in superglue and although it slows the curing process, can attach quite
strongly. (I have had problems getting epoxy to bond well with ABS.)
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I always make sure I have some sort of mechanical bond, even if it’s only a
thorough scuffing of the relevant surfaces with wet & dry sandpaper. More
often, though, I’ve got a pin running through any epoxied joint (shear strength
and all that...) too.
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You can
get gel super glue which will retain its bulk after it cures, and can then be
machined. I’ve used this occasionally, although with most of my work which
just involves re-attaching pieces of ABS to each other, I use MEK with
filler. And to repeat your caution, a lot of these materials are bad for
you.
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Oh, yes indeed! I personally wouldn’t use MEK (methyl ethyl ketone, if memory
serves) with anything less than a full environmental suit with appropriate
respirator in a room with industrial quality venting and scrubbing equipment.
That stuff is insanely toxic and the fumes will stick to surfaces and off-gas
for a surprising period of time.
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Keep dust out of your lungs especially epoxy and fiber glass, and keep
solvent fumes under control. A fan or an extraction system are important but
necessary accessories to a work area.
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Yep. You only get one set of lungs, folks! Don’t get scared off, but do treat
these materials with great care. Read those safety warnings on the packages,
and FOLLOW THEM!
Anyway, to end on a more positive note - thanks again John for sharing some
interesting new information. Right - who’s next? :)
Norbert Black
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