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Subject: 
Re: DCC TRAIN w/ MS & VLL
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto
Date: 
Wed, 16 May 2001 15:31:16 GMT
Viewed: 
412 times
  
Hey Chris,

I didn't mean to imply I couldn't *ever* get it to work, just only
at full power.  If you remove the stops, the train goes 2 or 3
feet in 1 message.

I'm trying to overcome *that* problem :)

I think the problem with the regular lamp is that it doesn't turn
off fast enough - it takes time to cool down.  You can overcome this
by signalling slower... but then the train goes farther :(

Objective:  talk to the MS with high reliability while minimizing
the distance the train moves.

Jeff


Chris Magno wrote:

Oh my gosh.

I just used a bunch of acronyms in the subjects....... I feel like
Calum.

Ok, this is for Jeff.

Your idea works!!!!!

this morning I got a little creative.  (all PURE LEGO)

when I did my test set up yesterday, I used a lego lamp. (Jeff said he
used a fiber optic unit)

I thought a lego lamp might be a bit brighter, and thus the low level
while the train was running would be ok for the microscout.

Alas, the idea failed.  and then My wife said I had social engagements.
:(  ".... But i wanna play lego!!!! [stomp feet, pout] "

well, this morning under the guise of fixing a dripping sink in the
basement, I have snuck away to try an idea I had last night.

I figured that if the 9v dc i was sending BOTH the train and the lamp
was not enuff for the MS then, logically, INCREASE the DC to the train.

THAT'S when I cobbled together a all lego voltage doubler, and put one
side to a battery box, and the second side to the RCX, with the output
to power the track, and the light port on an engine to power the lamp.

The idea worked.  (but WAIT there's more)

Sure, I sent 18v dc to the track, and sure when I pulsed the rcx to code
the microscout, the lamp got WAY brighter, and the train got WAY
faster..... (that was the part that worked) I'm sad to say the MS did
not respond.

so that idea was a waste.

my last grasp at straws was this:

when I did my MS display at the last lego dinner i used a Fiber optic
unit.  why not try it now.  (even thought Jeff could not get his to
work)

so I did this:

this is my setup that worked!!!!! and I did not have to use a voltage
doubler.  pics to follow once i fix the sink.

-power an rcx with a/c.
-power the track with the rcx.
-on a straight section of track, put a train stop. (I used several
bricks totaling a stop of 4 x 6 x 2 bricks high)
-to the  right of the stop put down a engine block by it self, (no other
decorative lego) have the engine face right by putting the light output
port to the right.
- place a microscout on the tracks. this doubles as a second train stop.

put a Fiber optic unit on the MS. and put ONE of the outputs into the
MS.
- power the Fiber optic unit with the train engine  light port.

that's it.

when I ran a very small rcx program I got the ms to work.

--
Chris
Visit my newly revamped walker page @
http://www.members.home.net/cmagno/technics/index.htm



Message has 1 Reply:
  Re: DCC TRAIN w/ MS & VLL
 
(...) That's a pretty cool idea, but I suspect by the time it's perfected, we'll be on DCC. In fact, we could probably go DCC for train1 just for the shunt yard and iso the shunt yard alone from the rest of the power blocks, which need isolation (...) (23 years ago, 16-May-01, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto)

Message is in Reply To:
  DCC TRAIN w/ MS & VLL
 
Oh my gosh. I just used a bunch of acronyms in the subjects....... I feel like Calum. Ok, this is for Jeff. Your idea works!!!!! this morning I got a little creative. (all PURE LEGO) when I did my test set up yesterday, I used a lego lamp. (Jeff (...) (23 years ago, 12-May-01, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto)

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