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Subject: 
9v, 18v 36v oh my!
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto
Date: 
Sat, 14 Dec 2002 18:18:09 GMT
Viewed: 
922 times
  
Inspired by all the cool things last night,

AND reviewing Dave's info on 18V dc from 2 lego battery box's, THEN
seeing Jeff E's post on using 2 smaller 9v battery box's directly; here
is what I've learned:

1. I need a better way to take digital pics!  (nuff said)

2.  I have the house to myself and decided to "grok"

http://www.tuxedo.org/~esr/jargon/html/entry/grok.html

Lego electrical.  (I'm fully versed in electronics, but i could never
wrap my head around lego and their special DC connectors.  It took some
time, and much pen and paper but I now understand the lego connectors.
The tricky part is learning that you have 2 positions per pole. Cause
you can turn a connector 90 degrees.  I'm sorry that I cant better
explain it. its just something you have to study.

3. Jeff E's idea for 18V does not work.  (as described
http://news.lugnet.com/org/ca/rtltoronto/?n=5825 )  BUT I found a way
that can.

http://members.rogers.com/magno/2.jpg

Jeff was correct in the placement of the wire.  this system uses one
strand of the lego wire as the jumper from one positive to the negative.

BUT  the method to connect the motor to the remaining positive and
negative did not work for me.  (as a side note It did still provide
power from one of the batter box's) the solution is to use a 2x4
electrical plate to join 2 battery box's that sit side by side, this
converts the lego wire system to allow the placement of an output
connector.


4.  if you have dead or frozen lego motors that still turn, but not 100%
then 18V or 36V might be a way to still use them in projects.  I had 4
dead motors that lego replaced. (thanks guys)  one was just stuck, but
the remaining 3 needed pliers to move.  BUT if you ZAP them with 18V
they almost work as a regular motor.

5. at 36V the thermal links in the battery box's start to go.  Since I
had bad motors anyway, why not mess with 36V.  well, at 36V the motors
turn, but then very quickly start to slow down, then stop.  I remember
that the 6AA battery box have a thermal cut off to protect against such
things...  I guess they are slow blow.

some other pics here:

I used red and white markers as a study aid to learn the system

http://members.rogers.com/magno/3.jpg

36V system:

http://members.rogers.com/magno/0.jpg

in the last shot you can also notice that my "bad" motors get a huge X
scratched in the back of them.

Well, I'm off to finish working on my robot for the next robot game.

Chris



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