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Subject: 
Re: Train tables
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.trains, lugnet.trains.org, lugnet.loc.us.mn.msp
Date: 
Fri, 4 Jun 1999 08:20:24 GMT
Reply-To: 
JOHNNEAL@USWESTihatespam.NET
Viewed: 
3 times
  
Mike Poindexter wrote:

John,

Is there some reason to put 20 levels of bricks other than to use up all those
bricks in colors nobody likes?

More like using up all those *sizes* nobody likes.  Our outer walls are always
red; inner yellow.  The inside is basically 2x2 towers fortifies every 5-6 rows
with a layer of 2x4s.  It's very sturdy:-)  We *only* use 2x4s on the outer walls,
but will use 2x3 on an inner walls.  Very hard to explain; once our web site is
up, you will see what I'm talking about.

The only thing I can think of is so that you
can drop down 20 layers to make a subway, but it seems cheaper to just build a
platform up higher - sort of like I am planning to do.

Yes, dropping down, cool executing of tunnels and bridges, the ability to vary the
terrain to add interest, and putting the layout at height which is eye level to
small wide-eyed onlookers;-)  Plus it gives us room to hide motors, wires,
transformers, etc.  I don't mean to sound like a Purist or anything [1], but
building platforms, etc. is not really building with Lego.  A layout is really
just a big model; I'm sure no one else would include non Lego parts in their
MOCs.  But, of course, we are talking about *massive* cash outlays for a set-up
like this, so it's the exception, not the rule;-)  Maybe only build up 5 rows...?

I do like Ben Fleskes system.  I just don't know if that is the size I want to
do.  what is the standard height?

Standard height of the table will simply be the height of the metal folding legs
that are screwed into a sheet of 3/4" plywood table.  Whatever *that* is:-)  For
ease of maneuvering and for maximum flexibility, I would recommend going with 30 x
45 size (plus you get 3 tables with little waste out of one 4' x 8' sheet of
plywood).

-John
[1] Not that there is anything wrong with that;-)

This will be even more important than the
width and length, as trains don't handle sudden drops very well.

Mike

In lugnet.trains, John Neal writes:
Mike-

At the GMLTC, we use about a 30 x45" table (= to exactly 6 large gray • baseplates)
with metal folding legs.   Our newest tables flare out to give us more room • (6"
IIRC):
_________________________________________
l        l        l        l        l        l        l        l • l        l

l____l____l____l____l____l____l____l____l____l
l        l        l        l        l        l        l        l • l        l

l____l____l____l____l____l____l____l____l____l
                          \____l____l____l____l____l____l

So here we'd see (I hope-- not good at ascii) a normal table, the new, slanted
transition table, and a new larger table (36 x 45) The squares are large gray
baseplates.

I personally use 30 x 45 in my home layout as well, although I line them up 3- • by
to gain more depth.
Now, if you wanted to build a section that would be compatable with the • GMLTC's,
you'd have to build up 20 bricks high to get to ground level-- takes 1000s of
bricks for just one section:-p

HTH,
John

Ben Fleskes wrote:

Yep, that's my design.

At a minimum, I suggest 30.25" x 60.5" for long linear runs.  When I need • extra
depth, I stack them two deep.  We (PNLTC) also have a few tables that are • ~40"
x ~80.  The larger size gives you a pretty good amount of space for a
standalone layout, but is not as easy to transport.  I like the 30x60 since
they are easy enough to move around, yet big enough to get a layout on. • We've
also started putting standard metal folddown legs on each table to cut down • on
our setup time at shows.

Hope this helps.

Ben Fleskes
PNLTC

In lugnet.trains, Mike Poindexter writes:
I was going to be building several tables for my Lego collection in my • hobby
room and was wondering how I should go about it.  I was originally going to
make the tables 45"x45", since it was a good, large table.  I happened to • see
the Modular train table windows meta files made by Ben Fleskes that have • the
30.25"x30.25" tables.  Does everyone run these style of table at the Lego • Tran
Clubs?  If so, I feel that I, too, should run this style or something
compatible with them just in case I go to one.  If not, I would just use it
for ideas on my own system.

Do many people use these tables and do they like them?  My main complaint • is
the lack of depth for making a large town.  This is of course offset by the
fact that one can reach to other side without stretching a lot.

I will be making these tables in early July.  I have all my Lego packed • away
for in-laws coming over for the week of my wedding.  After I return from • the
honeymoon, I get my Lego room back and want to do it up right!  Any • feedback
and/or suggestions would be greatly welcome.

Also, is there a standardized height for split level systems?  I will be
elevating at least one table and I was planning on 20 bricks high, as this
will allow an elevated monorail to climb one more time and be perfectly
positioned to ride along the ground.  I just have to make sure there is • enough
clearance underneath for a train to pass through on the main level.  I • believe
Ben's table would leave 13 bricks high of clearance, as it is just under • seven
studs thick.  I may even need a diffenent table for an elevated platform.

I also plan to build some kind of shelving storage system in the closet • for my
pieces and possibly a building/work table so that my work in progress won't
cause traffic jams in the Lego town (still un-named), but that is a • different
matter, unless there are great ideas you want to share.

Mike



Message is in Reply To:
  Re: Train tables
 
John, Is there some reason to put 20 levels of bricks other than to use up all those bricks in colors nobody likes? The only thing I can think of is so that you can drop down 20 layers to make a subway, but it seems cheaper to just build a platform (...) (25 years ago, 4-Jun-99, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.trains.org, lugnet.loc.us.mn.msp)

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