To LUGNET HomepageTo LUGNET News HomepageTo LUGNET Guide Homepage
 Help on Searching
 
Post new message to lugnet.faqOpen lugnet.faq in your NNTP NewsreaderTo LUGNET News Traffic PageSign In (Members)
 FAQ / 679
678  |  680
Subject: 
Re: How to tell Cellulose Acetate from ABS
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.faq
Date: 
Fri, 23 Jul 1999 18:13:23 GMT
Reply-To: 
JSPROAT@IO.antispamCOM
Viewed: 
4871 times
  
Gary,

This is very good FAQ material!  Thanks!

Cheers,
- jsproat

Gary Istok wrote:
> 
> Chris Dee sent me a personal Email about Cellulose Acetate.  So here is
> a reprint of my reply.  Gary Istok
> 
> ___________________________
> 
> I was looking at some Cellulose Acetate windows yesterday, and I have to
> say that some of the pieces (especially white) are a little difficult to
> tell from ABS Lego.
> 
> The red pieces are probably the easiest to tell apart.  They are a
> lighter color that has sort of an orange tint to it.  White bricks are
> more difficult to tell apart, probably due to the lack of any color.
> However the white bricks have a sort of "milky" hue.  Yellow and blue
> Cellulose Acetate bricks are scarcer to find.  The Cellulose Acetate
> yellow is lighter and more "lemon yellow" than the current yellow.  The
> blue is hard to distinquish.  And grey or black Cellulose Acetate pieces
> are very rare.
> 
> The easiest way to tell all Cellulose Acetate Lego from ABS is warping.
> If you take a brick and turn it upside down, look at the 2 longest
> straight edges of the brick bottom.  If there is a slight curve, you are
> almost guaranteed to have Cellulose Acetate.  If 2 equal sized bricks
> are put together, and there is any gap at all somewhere around the edges
> where they connect, you have Cellulose Acetate.  If the windows or doors
> have any warping at all (very common in Cellulose Acetate windows and
> sloped bricks) then you have Cellulose Acetate.
> 
> Also the flat surfaces (including the flat area around the studs on top)
> can also have some roughness (not wear) and uneven surfaces.
> 
> ABS plastic tends to keep its shape, even after 35 years.  So if your
> Lego brick has a darker color and no warpage, then it must be ABS.
> 
> One thing I have noticed is that those large white plates (2x8, 4x8,
> 6x8) with the square holed bottom are almost always Cellulose Acetate.
> And yet they don't warp much.  The square holed bottom must help
> preserve the shape of the plates.
> 
> Gary Istok
> 
> .
> > At 04:27 AM 7/23/99 PDT, you wrote:
> > Hi Gary
> > 
> > Seeing your recent discussions on LUGNET, is there a surefire way to
> > recognise Cellulose Acetate parts?
> > 
> > I have some bricks I have set aside from mixed parts purchases 'cos • they
> > don't look right. Some are clearly poor quality imitations, but some • have
> > the italicised LEGO logo on the studs, but the characters are not in • the
> > same proportions as the current bricks, they are slightly less tall. • The
> > text is definitely italicised and not squat and upright like some fakes • I
> > have seen. Any ideas about these - I could drop an example in the post • if
> > seeing them would help.
> > 
> > Chris Dee
> > 
> > 
> > ______________________________________________________
> > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com



--
Jeremy H. Sproat <jsproat@io.com>
http://www.io.com/~jsproat
Darth Maul Lives



1 Message in This Thread:

Entire Thread on One Page:
Nested:  All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:  All | Brief | Compact
    

©2005 LUGNET. All rights reserved. - hosted by steinbruch.info GbR