Subject:
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Re: Spanning large areas
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.build.arch
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Date:
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Sat, 8 Apr 2000 17:13:36 GMT
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Viewed:
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1056 times
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Nice list Brad.
I have used some of these myself. One method I have used on occasion is as
Shiri mentioned the "support line" which can be used to hold base plates as
well as 1/3 high bricks (sometimes a few columns in the centre of the
building help for support).
The "Mega Brick" method is one I use often, but thats because I have mega
bricks in red and yellow, not just green. I got a bunch from shop at home,
but I am not sure if they still sell them
The technic beam and pin has to be one the best IMO. The distances spanned
can be very long, although it doesn't look too pretty if it is visible, in
which case I use the arches.
Keep building
Silas
Brad Hamilton wrote in message ...
> Most stock LEGO sets use large, thin plates to create roofs and • second-story
> floors.
>
> In some cases (like Fort Legorado, 6769), they have created super-large
> plates (black in this case) to do the job.
>
> What happens when you need to span a LARGER area than this? Plates are • only
> so big. Also, it is often desireable to leave the back of a building open
> to let in more light and to save on bricks. This makes the structural
> challenge of spanning the roof (or adding an extra story) all the more
> challenging.
>
> I thought I'd share some of my techniques. I'd like to hear about ideas
> you've had for solving this problem.
>
> BOUND PLATES
>
> This is the cheapest and weakest means of spanning a large area. Using • this
> technique, you simply attach a series of plates together by attaching
> smaller plates above and/or below the main set. It is easy to span any • size
> or shape using this technique, but the resulting "roof" is very weak.
> Generally, you can only put mini-figs or other small decorations on the
> roof.
>
> In this hotel model ( http://members.home.net/hmltn1/city2/hotel.htm ), I
> used this technique for the large roof in the middle of the building. You
> might wonder how the sky-scraper part is supported. This section resides
> directly on top of the lower-story wall supports, so it is solid. The side
> and rear portions of the roof are weak sections of bound plates.
>
> CORBELLED ROOF/ARCH
>
> This mechanism is based on a primative architectural technique called a
> "corbelled arch." This method was used heavily by the Mayans in their
> architecture. In this technique, bricks are successively projected at
> greater lengths from the wall until they meet.
>
> This technique is reasonbly strong, especially if you offset the • projections
> from one direction with an equal force from the opposite direction.
>
> In my aqarium model ( http://members.home.net/hmltn1/city2/aquarium.htm -
> See the third thumbnail picture on the bottom of the page ), you can see • how
> I used this technique on the upper stories to create a dome-like effect • with
> yellow 2x4's.
>
> TRAIN CARRIAGES
>
> The flat train carriages are stiffer than normal plates because they have a
> thin flange that projects downwards. In my older castle designs, I used
> these to support the lower floor.
>
> Of course, this technique is only midly better than the "bound plate" • method
> and, given the expense of train plates today (I traded mine for other • parts)
> it is not recommended.
>
> PRE-FAB ARCHES
>
> LEGO introduced fairly large pre-fabricated arches a few years ago. These
> are 1x12x3 and come in a variety of colors. They are available in fairly
> reasonable qualities in sets like Knight Lords Castle (6097). These sets
> make for pretty architectural facing, but they can also be used internally
> to make strong architectural supports.
>
> I used arches to hold up the entire upper section of my castle
> http://members.home.net/hmltn1/city2/castle.htm ). The arches are able to
> support a great deal of weight and they look pretty as well.
>
> In my police station, I made much more subtle use of the arch
> http://members.home.net/hmltn1/city2/polleft.htm ) . You can see the dim
> outlines of a white arch behind the two greeen pointy windows (actually
> space windshield pieces). In this case, I had two separate portions of the
> structure and a wide gap in between. I wanted the gap open so that the
> window could let light into the interior. The arch tied the two pieces
> together and provided a strong support for the other 7 stories or so of the
> building.
>
> "MEGA-BRICKS"
>
> LEGO makes a few 1-brick thick (rather than 1/3 brick thick) plates. Most
> often, the largest of these plates come in green (like in the castle sets
> 6093 and 6097). These make strong, simple supports. The catch is that
> green isn't always a desireable color for upper stories of a building. To
> get around this problem, you can build your walls so that they are 1 brick
> wide than the mega-brick. Right before applying the mega-brick, corbel out
> 1-stud (2x4's work well). Then, put 1xX's (like 1x12, 1x16, 1x8 ...)
> around the mega-brick. This "hides" the green color, but you are left with
> an extremely strong structural support.
>
> TECHNIC BEAMS
>
> Technic beams are useful for spanning because they can be bound together to
> make extremely long, strong composit beams. The 8, 10, 12, and 16 stud
> varieties are ideal for this. The simplest way to bind two beams together
> is to lay them out in series, and the attach another beam using "pins" • where
> the other two come together. The newer "black" pins work better, but I
> don't have too many, so I often use the "gray" variety.
>
> I used this technique in many buildings including my bank
> uilding( http://members.home.net/hmltn1/city2/midtown.htm ). The bottom
> part of this building is much wider than the top part. The cool thing • about
> using technic beams is that I was able to combine them to exactly the • length
> I wanted. Also, I used red beams. This way, the ends can actually project
> into the outer wall of the structure and they look just like normal bricks.
> You can't see any trace of the beams in the final building, but the
> structure is extremely strong.
>
> Please respond with other techniques you have used to span large areas. • I'm
> always looking for new ideas!
>
> If you want to see more of my models, here is the link to the main page:
> http://members.home.net/bhamilto1/lego.htm
>
>
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Message is in Reply To:
 | | Spanning large areas
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| Most stock LEGO sets use large, thin plates to create roofs and second-story floors. In some cases (like Fort Legorado, 6769), they have created super-large plates (black in this case) to do the job. What happens when you need to span a LARGER area (...) (24 years ago, 8-Apr-00, to lugnet.build.arch)
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