Subject:
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Re: Automatic decoupler designs?
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.trains
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Date:
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Fri, 7 Jan 2000 03:55:00 GMT
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Reply-To:
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regult@aol.comAVOIDSPAM
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Viewed:
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1724 times
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On Fri, 7 Jan 2000 02:35:47 GMT, "Ed McGlynn" <ejmcglynn@juno.com>
wrote:
> Jeff -
> That's a very good reference page - please leave it intact a little while
> longer. Great photography to catch those details.
> A few questions, if I may...
>
> 1. I used the same Kadee couplers you did, and glued them on center to two 2x2
> plates as well. However, I found that the gearbox cover of the coupler would
> not stay firmly attached as a unit. Did you glue these gearbox covers in place
> first, then glue the whole assembly?
The covers of the Kadee coupler boxes are held together with a touch
on each side by a soldering iron, melting the plastic together along
the whole length of the coupler box. You can super glue them of
course, but depending on the type of super glue, it can run inside the
coupler box and glue the springs together, making it useless.
> 2. I used only one magnet on the tracks. Is there a significant difference
> with using two? I shyed away from cutting the tracks, and wanted a more
> portable solution. I attached the steel intensifying plate to two 2x2 tiles,
> and the uncoupler magnet floats on top of that assembly.
I tried one magnet at first also, but the couplers barely swung to the
sides, and at times needed coaxing. I cut two magnets to fit, stacked
them between the rails (after removing a section of tie) and the
couplers swung all the way to the sides with no problem, without using
the steel plate. I'd say by stacking the magnets, they increase the
power by about 50% or so. Just be sure the magnets are the right
polarization before cutting them, otherwise they won't hold together
on their own.
> 3. What type of glue did you use? Are there mechanical attachment alternatives
> you can recommend?
>
> Thanks,
> Ed
I thought about how to attach them to the LEGO trucks, and super
gluing them seemed to be the easiest solution. I thought about other
ways, but I never came up with anything concrete. I used super glue
gell to attach them, and I let them set up overnight before use.
The only real problem I had using Kadee couplers was that after
uncoupling and shoving the cars to spot them, the cars would roll
faster then the engine, the couplers would recenter and I'd have to
recouple to the car, and then uncouple it all over again. I solved
this by removing one of the train wheels on each car, inserting a bit
of shoelace into the area where the wheel was, then snapping the wheel
back in place. This gave the cars a little resistance so they wouldn't
roll away.
Jeff Christner
Visit Sixby Fire Tech at - http://members.aol.com/regult/
Help support my LEGO habit. Ship by rail.
Visit http://www.nscorp.com/ to find out how.
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Message is in Reply To:
 | | Re: Automatic decoupler designs?
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| (...) have (...) Jeff - That's a very good reference page - please leave it intact a little while longer. Great photography to catch those details. A few questions, if I may... 1. I used the same Kadee couplers you did, and glued them on center to (...) (25 years ago, 7-Jan-00, to lugnet.trains)
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