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> 1. How do you mount your couplers to the wheel sets “trucks”?
95% are standard Lego train 9V buffer beams (or the new snowplough buffers on
some locomotives).
Some models (mostly my space trains) use 2x3 plate-with-hole pieces to hold the
magnet clip. In one case I used space magnet clips, but that was between a
locomotive and tender so I wouldn't want it to uncouple. For me, new couplings
would either have to work on standard buffer beams (preferred) or wholly
substitute for them; preferably they'd work on snowplough buffer beams too. If
they didn't work for other attachment methods I wouldn't be bothered.
> 2. Do you have any interest in functional Magne-Matic couplers for Lego trains? No Lego modifications would be necessary.
Yes, they sound very useful.
> 3. Would you prefer the original pin style mount, Technic axles, or Technic hole?
Original pin mount, as a preference. Using an axle or pin in a technic hole
would make a looser fit which could work itself apart. Also I wouldn't want to
use grey technic bits around the otherwise black coupling.
> 4. How many of your trains would you outfit with couplers?
Probably all of them, eventually. That's around 60 pairs. Though initially,
and depending on price, I might just equip locomotives and then carry spares for
the first wagon / carriage in each train, so that would be about 20 pairs.
> 5. How much do you think is a reasonable price per train car (2 couplers)?
$2.00. $3.50 would be an absolute maximum, given current exchange rates from
the UK. At the higher price I'd just be buying a few for my locomotives and the
first truck in a train.
Bear in mind that you would have to pay this on top of the price of Lego buffer
beams. I'd still prefer to use original Lego buffer beams though than a cheap
replacement.
> 6. Are there any special properties you would like to see incorporated into a Lego compatible Kadee coupler?
i. I'd like to see it all in black, to match the Lego ones.
ii. Coupled trucks should ride exactly the same distance apart as with current
magnets - so a mix of these and ordinary magnets doesn't look odd.
iii. Detailing should be simple and minimal. I don't want it to look like a
particular region or nation's style of coupling, nor to have elaborate chain or
spring detail moulded into it as that would look out of place with the rest of
the Lego.
iv. It would need a Lego-compatible track-mounted uncoupler plate, too.
Jason Railton
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Jason J Railton wrote:
> iii. Detailing should be simple and minimal. I don't want it to look
> like a particular region or nation's style of coupling, nor to have
> elaborate chain or spring detail moulded into it as that would look
> out of place with the rest of the Lego.
My guess is that we'll get detail, they would probably just use the O-scale
knuckle parts. Other detail will include the "brake hose" which is the pin
that is moved by the uncoupling magnet.
Frank
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