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Here is another very easy way for your consideration, all you need is the
actuator from the 12V points/switch or the 12V automatic level crossings, a
short length of string (Lego string is good :-) ) and a dab of glue.
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=65562
Of course the yellow lever must be in the position shown and it does not move
when the points are actuated. If a train comes through against the points it
can easily push the movable piece against the weak magnetism of the actuator.
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In lugnet.trains, John Hill wrote:
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Here is another very easy way for your consideration, all you need is the
actuator from the 12V points/switch or the 12V automatic level crossings, a
short length of string (Lego string is good :-) ) and a dab of glue.
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=65562
Of course the yellow lever must be in the position shown and it does not move
when the points are actuated. If a train comes through against the points
it can easily push the movable piece against the weak magnetism of the
actuator.
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Hi John,
Thank you for this complement. Do you think the 12V actuator could work with a
9V tension? I dont have such 12V actuator yet but your suggestions is very
smart and so simple.
Philippe.
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In lugnet.trains, Philippe Label wrote:
Do you think the 12V actuator could work with
Hi Philippe,
yes, mine operate from 9V but the string must have a little slack when it is in
the relaxed position. This gives the mechanism a chance to accumulate some
inertia before it has to do any work.
I think it would work even better if you used SNOB* techniques so that the
capstan is the same level as the rail thereby allowing a direct path for the
string.
- = Studs now on bottom :-)
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