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Hello,
I just posted on brickshelf
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=16622
picture of the remote point and decoupler on my layout. I know there was a
tread a few month ago but didn't had time to take part of the discussion.
The point is base on a design I saw on the net (sorry I don't remember from
who). It is using the new motor with a linear gear box. What's different is
that the mechanisim is under the track witch is 3 bricks high, with track 5
brick high everithing could be hiden under except for the actuator arm.
the decoupler again is base on a design a saw on the net. I'm also using the
new motor and put the mechanisim under track. This time the track is 3.2 brick
high and the track is going down in the yard so the car can roll down.
Martin
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An excellent design for that uncoupler, (sighs) I only wish I had the time
to build trains with LEGO®. Oh well, DUPLO® will do just fine for me...-Harvey
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Martin Legault wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I just posted on brickshelf
> http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=16622
>
> picture of the remote point and decoupler on my layout. I know there was a
> thread a few month ago but didn't had time to take part of the discussion.
>
> The point is based on a design I saw on the net (sorry I don't remember from
> who). It is using the new motor with a linear gear box. What's different is
> that the mechanisim is under the track witch is 3 bricks high, with track 5
> brick high everithing could be hiden under except for the actuator arm.
Some internal details would be most welcome. Very sleek looking.
> the decoupler again is based on a design I saw on the net.
If it was the little white shed with the red uncoupling point, that one
was mine. I had instructions up, but unfortunately, lost the pics when
my web host got bought out. I can't seem to find them again, but if
there's some interest, I'll try to recreate them and repost on
Brickshelf when I can. (Alternately, if anyone saved all 16 or so steps,
and would like to forward them to me, I'll get 'em posted back up asap!)
I'm also using the
> new motor and put the mechanisim under track. This time the track is 3.2 brick
> high and the track is going down in the yard so the car can roll down.
Going under the tracks for the uncoupler and point switcher is way cool.
It's perfect for the top of a humpyard. And 3.2 bricks is not so high
for a limited application. (Wouldn't want to build up my whole train
layout to that height, though...)
Nice Work!
Rick C.
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In lugnet.trains, Rick Clark writes:
>
>
> Martin Legault wrote:
>
> > Hello,
> >
> > I just posted on brickshelf
> > http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=16622
> >
> > picture of the remote point and decoupler on my layout. I know there was a
> > thread a few month ago but didn't had time to take part of the discussion.
> >
> > The point is based on a design I saw on the net (sorry I don't remember from
> > who). It is using the new motor with a linear gear box. What's different is
> > that the mechanisim is under the track witch is 3 bricks high, with track 5
> > brick high everithing could be hiden under except for the actuator arm.
I remember several linear gear box designs - you must use that to keep it so
compact as in your design.
>
> Some internal details would be most welcome. Very sleek looking.
>
>
> > the decoupler again is based on a design I saw on the net.
>
>
> If it was the little white shed with the red uncoupling point, that one
> was mine. I had instructions up, but unfortunately, lost the pics when
> my web host got bought out. I can't seem to find them again, but if
> there's some interest, I'll try to recreate them and repost on
> Brickshelf when I can. (Alternately, if anyone saved all 16 or so steps,
> and would like to forward them to me, I'll get 'em posted back up asap!)
...I remember your design, Rick - I might have those steps printed out
somewhere - I'll get back to you if I have something.
> I'm also using the
> > new motor and put the mechanisim under track. This time the track is 3.2 brick
> > high and the track is going down in the yard so the car can roll down.
>
> Going under the tracks for the uncoupler and point switcher is way cool.
> It's perfect for the top of a humpyard. And 3.2 bricks is not so high
> for a limited application. (Wouldn't want to build up my whole train
> layout to that height, though...)
>
> Nice Work!
>
> Rick C.
Yes, I agree - we've bantered about such a design, and you've actually
prototyped it. It is sleek, for sure, and I agree about the humpyard
application. I'm wary of using that for the entire layout especially
because you need so many external and supporting bricks to accomplish this,
but it's a great goal to strive for! This shows me how a roundhouse
turntable mechanism would have to be hidden.
Ed
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In lugnet.trains, Ed McGlynn writes:
> In lugnet.trains, Rick Clark writes:
> >
> >
> > Martin Legault wrote:
> >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > I just posted on brickshelf
> > > http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=16622
> > >
> > > picture of the remote point and decoupler on my layout. I know there was a
> > > thread a few month ago but didn't had time to take part of the discussion.
> > >
> > > The point is based on a design I saw on the net (sorry I don't remember • from
> > > who). It is using the new motor with a linear gear box. What's different is
> > > that the mechanisim is under the track witch is 3 bricks high, with track 5
> > > brick high everithing could be hiden under except for the actuator arm.
>
>
> I remember several linear gear box designs - you must use that to keep it so
> compact as in your design.
>
> >
> > Some internal details would be most welcome. Very sleek looking.
sorry I don't have dat file but here how it is build:
the motor have a 8 tooth gear that is driving the 1x4 linear gear that is
mounted on a technic beam (16 stud for better performance), at one end, there
is a 3x3 corner half beam (32056) on each side of the 16 stud beam, at the top
end of the 3x3, there is a connector with a vertical axis (6553) with a 1x4
half beam (2825) with the thick end on the axis and the small one on the
switch.
I'm controling it with the polarity switch. I set the regulator to full power
and activate the switch for about 1/10th or 2 of a second, the mechanism as to
be tightly secured if not the motor will lift and the gear slip. That's what
append with my prototype, with the version with landscape it still work fine
after hundred of operation.
> >
> >
> > > the decoupler again is based on a design I saw on the net.
> >
> >
> > If it was the little white shed with the red uncoupling point, that one
> > was mine. I had instructions up, but unfortunately, lost the pics when
> > my web host got bought out. I can't seem to find them again, but if
> > there's some interest, I'll try to recreate them and repost on
> > Brickshelf when I can. (Alternately, if anyone saved all 16 or so steps,
> > and would like to forward them to me, I'll get 'em posted back up asap!)
>
>
It is that design yes, work just fine.
> ...I remember your design, Rick - I might have those steps printed out
> somewhere - I'll get back to you if I have something.
>
> > I'm also using the
> > > new motor and put the mechanisim under track. This time the track is 3.2 • brick
> > > high and the track is going down in the yard so the car can roll down.
> >
> > Going under the tracks for the uncoupler and point switcher is way cool.
> > It's perfect for the top of a humpyard. And 3.2 bricks is not so high
> > for a limited application. (Wouldn't want to build up my whole train
> > layout to that height, though...)
> >
> > Nice Work!
> >
> > Rick C.
>
> Yes, I agree - we've bantered about such a design, and you've actually
> prototyped it. It is sleek, for sure, and I agree about the humpyard
> application. I'm wary of using that for the entire layout especially
> because you need so many external and supporting bricks to accomplish this,
> but it's a great goal to strive for! This shows me how a roundhouse
> turntable mechanism would have to be hidden.
>
> Ed
It work realy well for the yard, need a lot of 2x4 but it work so well, when
I'll rebuild my layout, I'll put 'earth' under the track. The inside track wher
e higher the the outer, this help car rolling down multiple point and make it
easyer to see car in the yard.
No I probably won't put all my track 3 brick high but I wanted an automated
yard and also I had to raise track for my bridge
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=47072
this picture was taken at Train1 in may 2001 in Toronto.
and yes it will work just well for a round house or every other mechanism that
you can image for train.
Martin
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