 | | | | | |
I wrote an article about this for Classic-Castle:
http://www.classic-castle.com/howto/articles/packing.html
Hope that helps.
-Lenny
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
|
Leonard Hoffman wrote:
> I wrote an article about this for Classic-Castle:
>
> http://www.classic-castle.com/howto/articles/packing.html
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> -Lenny
This kind of stuff would be excellent material for a curator to collect...
The trick is to consider what forces cause MOCs to disassemble.
Vibration is one issue. Solidly constructed models will survive best from
this standpoint. This is the reason most greebles fall off.
Torque/twisting/bending is another issue. This is the other reason most
greebles fall off (they stick out, and whack against something else, and the
bending moment pops them loose). It is also the bane of larger creations.
The larger (and especially longer) your creation is, the more torque that is
applied as the MOC bends and twists under stress from shifting loads.
Implosion is the last big issue. It's really a special case of
torque/twisting/bending. A large hollow box will collapse if something
spearlike impacts the wall of the box.
A final issue that I have not seen to much of a problem with is breakage of
parts. Greebles are probably the most susceptible to damage.
So armed with these modes of disassembly, you can come up with ways to
address them.
Small sub-modules go a long way to improving survival. Plus, if things do
break, you're trying to figure out how 10 chunks of 100 pieces go back
together rather than how 1000 pieces go back together.
De-greebling solves a ton of minor problems.
I have successefully used temporary bracing to help things hold together. A
box without a top becomes stronger if some plates are put on it to make a
top. Pirate ship hulls hold together better when plates are temporarily
attached to the bottom to add additional strength to hold the hull sections
together.
Another trick is sub-packing. I pack my MOCs into several small boxes all of
which are fit into a larger box or suitcase. Doing so reduces the distance
things can travel when the container is subjected to shock (dropping or
being dropped on).
I actually use relatively little padding.
My big port scene which breaks down into a bunch of small modules is my
biggest experience with travelling. I use very little padding with this.
Most of the padding comes from the plastic bags each module goes into. I fit
things into boxes so they fit fairly tightly though. I have never had to
spend more than about an hour getting this ready for display including all
unpacking, re-greebling, re-building the occaisional part that falls apart.
I think once I have had one of the room modules (basically a box) really get
broken up, usually just a small section at the top of a wall will pop off.
Frank
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
If I am transporting my MOCs, I tend to use Games Workshop carry cases -
with a bit less of the stuffing - it braces the model well, and keeps it
from getting broken. Because these are hardcases, which seal, peices that
break off will stay in the case.
If you are going to do it often, and have larger models, maybe it is worth
considering the flight cases normally used for music equipment. Again -
these seal well, they are hardcases (and can take the knocks) as well as
having a padded interior.
Orion
--
http://orionrobots.co.uk - Learn to build robots
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
Nice artical - but I really like the kalashnikov - thats a seriously top
ship.
Orion
--
http://orionrobots.co.uk - Learn to build robots
On Mon, 4 April, 2005 5:07 pm, Leonard Hoffman said:
> I wrote an article about this for Classic-Castle:
>
> http://www.classic-castle.com/howto/articles/packing.html
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> -Lenny
| | | | | | |
