| |
I have one other technique that I haven’t documented yet. I saw William Howard
doing some slanted walls for shop fronts, and had to work out the maths behind
it.
The technique is for fitting in a wall that slants in or out by two studs. The
slanted section can be any length. Look at the diagram below for 2, 4 and
6-stud long examples:
By comparing the top and bottom images, you can begin to see how it works.
The top image uses one yellow (or blue or green) plate between the two red
plates to show the spacing. Now consider the length of the diagonal across that
yellow plate, from one red plate to the other. If you rotate that yellow plate,
its other diagonal - the same length - bridges the gap just as well.
The same trick works for any length plate. You just need wall or plate hinges
at each end to hold the diagonal in place.
Jason R
|
|
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In lugnet.build.schleim, Jason J Railton wrote:
| |
I have one other technique that I haven’t documented yet. I saw William
Howard doing some slanted walls for shop fronts, and had to work out the
maths behind it.
The technique is for fitting in a wall that slants in or out by two studs.
The slanted section can be any length. Look at the diagram below for 2, 4
and 6-stud long examples:
By comparing the top and bottom images, you can begin to see how it works.
The top image uses one yellow (or blue or green) plate between the two red
plates to show the spacing. Now consider the length of the diagonal across
that yellow plate, from one red plate to the other. If you rotate that
yellow plate, its other diagonal - the same length - bridges the gap just as
well.
The same trick works for any length plate. You just need wall or plate
hinges at each end to hold the diagonal in place.
Jason R
|
Excellent application of mathematics skills!
Geometry is terribly underrated.
Thanks!
Olof
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|
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In lugnet.build.schleim, Jason J Railton wrote:
| |
I have one other technique that I haven’t documented yet. I saw William
Howard doing some slanted walls for shop fronts, and had to work out the
maths behind it.
The technique is for fitting in a wall that slants in or out by two studs.
The slanted section can be any length. Look at the diagram below for 2, 4
and 6-stud long examples:
By comparing the top and bottom images, you can begin to see how it works.
The top image uses one yellow (or blue or green) plate between the two red
plates to show the spacing. Now consider the length of the diagonal across
that yellow plate, from one red plate to the other. If you rotate that
yellow plate, its other diagonal - the same length - bridges the gap just as
well.
The same trick works for any length plate. You just need wall or plate
hinges at each end to hold the diagonal in place.
|
Note that this technique is used in the nose of the UCS X-wing over a length of
28 studs:
ROSCO
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|
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In lugnet.build.schleim, Jason J Railton wrote:
| |
The same trick works for any length plate. You just need wall or plate
hinges at each end to hold the diagonal in place.
|
For the sake of completeness, it’s worth to mention this technique not only
works for any length, but also for any width of plate/brick. In other words,
you’re able to slant ? x 2, ? x 4 and so on by mirroring along the diagonal as
well, using an equally larger parallel ofsett.
With friendly greetings, M. Moolhuysen
|
|
| |
In lugnet.build.schleim, Manfred Moolhuysen wrote:
| |
In lugnet.build.schleim, Jason J Railton wrote:
| |
The same trick works for any length plate. You just need wall or plate
hinges at each end to hold the diagonal in place.
|
For the sake of completeness, it’s worth to mention this technique not only
works for any length, but also for any width of plate/brick. In other
words, you’re able to slant ? x 2, ? x 4 and so on by mirroring along the
diagonal as well, using an equally larger parallel ofsett.
|
Indeed. Wider bricks/plates do result in a correspondingly larger gap though.
ROSCO
|
|
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In lugnet.build.schleim, Jason J Railton wrote:
| |
I have one other technique that I haven’t documented yet. I saw William
Howard doing some slanted walls for shop fronts, and had to work out the
maths behind it.
-snip-
If you rotate that
yellow plate, its other diagonal - the same length - bridges the gap just as
well.
The same trick works for any length plate. You just need wall or plate
hinges at each end to hold the diagonal in place.
Jason R
|
This is very cool! It seems obvious now you’ve highlighted it, but I could never
have spotted it.
(I can’t wait to use it in practice!)
Thanks for sharing!
Cheers
Richie Dulin
|
|
| |
In lugnet.build.schleim, Richie Dulin wrote:
| |
In lugnet.build.schleim, Jason J Railton wrote:
| |
I have one other technique that I haven’t documented yet. I saw William
Howard doing some slanted walls for shop fronts, and had to work out the
maths behind it.
-snip-
If you rotate that
yellow plate, its other diagonal - the same length - bridges the gap just as
well.
The same trick works for any length plate. You just need wall or plate
hinges at each end to hold the diagonal in place.
Jason R
|
This is very cool! It seems obvious now you’ve highlighted it, but I could
never have spotted it.
(I can’t wait to use it in practice!)
Thanks for sharing!
Cheers
Richie Dulin
|
Believe it or not, I worked some of this out whilst placing sheep.
We use a lot of the sheep based on a 2x3 brick, but they all tend to line up in
the same direction. So, next time you’re building a flock, try this:
Place two 1x1 round plates one knight’s-move apart. Then you can stand a 2x3
brick on top so the round plates are under diagonally opposite corners. But,
you can also rotate the brick so that they’re under the other diagonal.
Now you have a brick attached to the baseplate, but at an odd angle. And no
3-4-5 triangles required. It works for any rectangular area, and for any
pattern of n-studs up and m-studs across. If you can make a grid of 1x1 plates,
for example, that is rotated slightly, you’ll find an odd diagonal at which you
can place a plate on top. It can be a bit difficult to predict though.
Jason R
|
|
| |
In lugnet.build.schleim, Jason J Railton wrote:
| |
In lugnet.build.schleim, Richie Dulin wrote:
| |
In lugnet.build.schleim, Jason J Railton wrote:
| |
I have one other technique that I haven’t documented yet. I saw William
Howard doing some slanted walls for shop fronts, and had to work out the
maths behind it.
-snip-
If you rotate that
yellow plate, its other diagonal - the same length - bridges the gap just
as
well.
The same trick works for any length plate. You just need wall or plate
hinges at each end to hold the diagonal in place.
Jason R
|
This is very cool! It seems obvious now you’ve highlighted it, but I could
never have spotted it.
(I can’t wait to use it in practice!)
Thanks for sharing!
Cheers
Richie Dulin
|
Believe it or not, I worked some of this out whilst placing sheep.
We use a lot of the sheep based on a 2x3 brick, but they all tend to line up
in the same direction. So, next time you’re building a flock, try this:
|
-snip-
I shall have to build a flock just to try this for myself!
Cheers!
Richie Dulin
|
|
| |
In lugnet.build.schleim, Richie Dulin wrote:
| |
In lugnet.build.schleim, Jason J Railton wrote:
| |
In lugnet.build.schleim, Richie Dulin wrote:
| |
In lugnet.build.schleim, Jason J Railton wrote:
| |
I have one other technique that I haven’t documented yet. I saw William
Howard doing some slanted walls for shop fronts, and had to work out the
maths behind it.
-snip-
If you rotate that
yellow plate, its other diagonal - the same length - bridges the gap just
as
well.
The same trick works for any length plate. You just need wall or plate
hinges at each end to hold the diagonal in place.
Jason R
|
This is very cool! It seems obvious now you’ve highlighted it, but I could
never have spotted it.
(I can’t wait to use it in practice!)
Thanks for sharing!
Cheers
Richie Dulin
|
Believe it or not, I worked some of this out whilst placing sheep.
We use a lot of the sheep based on a 2x3 brick, but they all tend to line up
in the same direction. So, next time you’re building a flock, try this:
|
-snip-
I shall have to build a flock just to try this for myself!
Cheers!
Richie Dulin
|
Brickish sheep:
http://www.brickish.org/bi/bi2.pdf
and ram:
http://www.brickish.org/bi/bi4.PDF
(Mark Palmer)
Jason R
|
|
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In lugnet.build.schleim, I wrote:
| |
| |
For the sake of completeness, it’s worth to mention this technique not only
works for any length, but also for any width of plate/brick. In other
words, you’re able to slant ? x 2, ? x 4 and so on by mirroring along the
diagonal as well, using an equally larger parallel ofsett.
|
|
In lugnet.build.schleim, Ross Crawford answered:
| |
Indeed. Wider bricks/plates do result in a correspondingly larger gap though.
|
...that can be filled adequately by tiles or plates + tiles attached snotwise.
(Oops, I just realised I’ve put this thread back on-topic, because up until now
the discussion was most about studs on top techniques. :-)
With friendly greetings, M, Moolhuysen.
|
|
| |
In lugnet.build.schleim, Manfred Moolhuysen wrote:
| |
In lugnet.build.schleim, I wrote:
| |
| |
For the sake of completeness, it’s worth to mention this technique not only
works for any length, but also for any width of plate/brick. In other
words, you’re able to slant ? x 2, ? x 4 and so on by mirroring along the
diagonal as well, using an equally larger parallel ofsett.
|
|
In lugnet.build.schleim, Ross Crawford answered:
| |
Indeed. Wider bricks/plates do result in a correspondingly larger gap
though.
|
...that can be filled adequately by tiles or plates + tiles attached
snotwise.
(Oops, I just realised I’ve put this thread back on-topic, because up until
now the discussion was most about studs on top techniques. :-)
With friendly greetings, M, Moolhuysen.
|
Yes, but the studs were out of aschlignment. And we can talk about scheep if we
want to...
Anyway, the new 1x1 ‘cheeser’ slopes would be best to pad the gap, if it was the
right size.
Jason R
|
|
| |
In lugnet.build.schleim, Jason J Railton wrote:
| |
Yes, but the studs were out of aschlignment. And we can talk about scheep if
we want to...
|
:-) scheep...? schafe! (or “schapen” in my native language)
| |
Anyway, the new 1x1 ‘cheeser’ slopes would be best to pad the gap, if it was
the right size.
|
That is a pretty good idea, does someone know any example of someone using this
already?
With friendly greetings, M, Moolhuysen.
|
|
| |
In lugnet.build.schleim, Manfred Moolhuysen wrote:
| |
In lugnet.build.schleim, Jason J Railton wrote:
| |
Yes, but the studs were out of aschlignment. And we can talk about scheep
if we want to...
|
:-) scheep...? schafe! (or “schapen” in my native language)
| |
Anyway, the new 1x1 ‘cheeser’ slopes would be best to pad the gap, if it was
the right size.
|
That is a pretty good idea, does someone know any example of someone using
this already?
With friendly greetings, M, Moolhuysen.
|
Mark Stafford had this Asimov-style ship
at LegoWorld that uses cheesers near the front to close the gap between the two
wedges.
Jason R
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|
|
